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Router or Rasp? - D_Harris - 09-28-2020
I'm back to a project that I was originally going to tackle last year.
My goal was to join two plywood pieces at 80 degrees, before covering with veneer. The problem I ran into was figuring out how to round-over the joint. (The below picture shows an example of what I want to do).
Is the round-over possible with a router or am I forced to use a rasp?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
RE: Router or Rasp? - fredhargis - 09-28-2020
Roundover bits normally require a 90º corner to properly guide the bearing and then cut a uniform radius. I'm not sure what would happen in your case, but I'm pretty sure it wouldn't look like the pic.
RE: Router or Rasp? - AHill - 09-28-2020
Definitely not a rasp. You'd be rasping end grain on some ply laminates, and you'll create more problems than it's worth. I'd use a random orbital sander or sheet sander. You can cut a template with the curvature on it to check the profile while sanding.
RE: Router or Rasp? - jlanciani - 09-28-2020
Freud router bit; https://www.freudtools.com/products/85-155
RE: Router or Rasp? - John Mihich - 09-28-2020
[attachment=30030]
I did something like that for a Model A trunk. I used a plane to get it mostly round then ROS. Because it was plywood i filled the end grain with body putty to make it perfectly smooth. I then covered it will black vinyl.
I used a plane and sander. I did have to fill (bondo) in a couple spots that I screwed up. Did the same thing with a waterfall chest a while back. While not exactly the same the idea is there.
RE: Router or Rasp? - Gary G™ - 09-28-2020
Your round over runs the length of the two joints, correct?
If so, and if you can support the center section solidly and run the router along these joints with the proper radius, I don’t see why a router won’t work.
RE: Router or Rasp? - cputnam - 09-28-2020
A block plane and a sanding block will do just fine. About as fast as anything and cheap, too (assuming you have a block plane.)
RE: Router or Rasp? - KyleD - 09-29-2020
I would cut the joinery then trace out the curve on the ends of the boards before gluing the assembly up. Take the traced board to the tablesaw and run it through upright several times angling the blade to cut the majority of the curve out. Glue it up and then it should be easy to use a belt or orbital sander to fair the curve. I have a tall fence board I put on my fence to make these upright cuts easy to run through the saw.
As someone already suggested make a template to make sure the curve is even along the length of the joint if you are nervous about keeping it the straight.
This could make clamping the assembly a little hard but if it is going to be veneered with something you could use brads or an 18 gauge nailer to hold it while the glue dries. Set the nails a little below the surface and make sure the cuts are close to the curve trace so you are not trying to sand nail heads.
RE: Router or Rasp? - Bill_de - 10-02-2020
(09-28-2020, 10:09 AM)D_Harris Wrote: I'm back to a project that I was originally going to tackle last year.
My goal was to join two plywood pieces at 80 degrees, before covering with veneer. The problem I ran into was figuring out how to round-over the joint. (The below picture shows an example of what I want to do).
Is the round-over possible with a router or am I forced to use a rasp?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
A router should work. You may want to fabricate rails to make it easy to hold the router at the optimum angle. Short rails could be attached to the router base, or longer ones on the work piece.
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RE: Router or Rasp? - handi - 10-03-2020
(09-28-2020, 05:11 PM)jlanciani Wrote: Freud router bit; https://www.freudtools.com/products/85-155
This was exactly what I was thinking.