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Father's Day is coming up and I'm thinking about putting a 6' level on my list.
It would be nice to have an edge that is somewhat straight and 6' long. I would have used it when seeing how flat walls are or used as a reference when attaching squirrely things that need to be forced into place. Plus I already have a 2' and two 4', so I figure 6' is the next step. All have their place.
I do have two questions though:
1) Where did these 6' levels come from? I've heard it's growth is from all the new houses having 9' or even 10' studs, so a longer level was naturally needed.
2) I see some of this size level come 72" long, while others come 78" long. What is the reason for different lengths?
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Door jambs..
Mark
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CLETUS said:
Door jambs..
yup, and in general, the longer the level, the more accurate it is. I have a stabila jamber set and it works great.
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DieselDennis said:
It would be nice to have an edge that is somewhat straight and 6' long. I would have used it when seeing how flat walls are ....
1) Where did these 6' levels come from? I've heard it's growth is from all the new houses having 9' or even 10' studs, so a longer level was naturally needed.
Those studs are why I don't like those 6' or longer levels as is.
Seldom do I find a
straight wall or 2x4. If the level is straight and the wood is not it tends to rock some. So even if the stud is plumb, it may or may not read plumb.
I added identical spacers at the ends so it bridges the actual wall or stud's length and just references the ends. If I want to check for straightness I can use my "gap gauge" spacer along the length.
Not perfect, but I feel it is a better indication of plumb.
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I recall someone writing that he had gotten into a pissing contest with his buddy over who had the longest level. They kept buying new. When he got his 6 foot level he was sure that he had his buddy whooped. But then his buddy sent a photo of himself with an 8 foot level. (It was actually two levels, each four feet long. He stacked them atop each other and hid the joint with his grasp of the two. I saw the photo and it was very convincing.
So if you are in competition watch our for that trick.
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for framing and plumbing walls, a plate level works best. It takes the bowed studs out of the equation. Again, the stabila works very well. Also, if you get the longer version, I think it would be tough to beat in the level length competition.
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tsbrewers said:
for framing and plumbing walls, a plate level works best. It takes the bowed studs out of the equation.
just googled plate level....
Not a carpenter by trade, but helped in construction for over 40 years...
And I am just learning what a plate level is?! all those years....
tsbrewers, thank you for that. Never too old to learn ...
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I just got through using a 8' level to install the 4'x10' sheets of siding on my new building.
proly could have used the 6' or 4' level that I have on hand but what the heck the 8' was handy.
Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick
Mark
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srv52761 said:
[blockquote]DieselDennis said:
It would be nice to have an edge that is somewhat straight and 6' long. I would have used it when seeing how flat walls are ....
1) Where did these 6' levels come from? I've heard it's growth is from all the new houses having 9' or even 10' studs, so a longer level was naturally needed.
Those studs are why I don't like those 6' or longer levels as is.
Seldom do I find a
straight wall or 2x4. If the level is straight and the wood is not it tends to rock some. So even if the stud is plumb, it may or may not read plumb.
I added identical spacers at the ends so it bridges the actual wall or stud's length and just references the ends. If I want to check for straightness I can use my "gap gauge" spacer along the length.
Not perfect, but I feel it is a better indication of plumb.
[/blockquote]
I just use an 8' level on the top and bottom plate next to a stud and on 9 and 10' walls I have 9 and 10' aluminum straightedges I mount my 8' level to to do the same.
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Quote:
I just use an 8' level on the top and bottom plate next to a stud and on 9 and 10' walls I have 9 and 10' aluminum straightedges I mount my 8' level to to do the same.
a 2' level will accomplish the same thing if the aluminum is indeed straight and parallel( my 10' aluminum is a piece of 2x4 1/8" wall) ... I ran a lot of on grade main sewer line and in 250' of line run I was within the spec for the survey crew..... it was nice not to have to crawl out of a ditch every 10 feet to check grade with a sight level
I own a plate level because I won it. Without standoffs the only place it is of any use is setting door jambs
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