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What they all said - OR - use spackel to fill the edge and sand. It will paint just fine.
John
Always use the right tool for the job.
We need to clean house.
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If I were painting it, I would just use some grain filler and sand then paint. If you do this right it will look perfectly smooth.
I've used iron on banding with good success (I never had one delaminate). It is fast, easy and cheap. It would use this for garage cabinets if I were staining and clear coating.
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I have edge banded large sheets of plywood and trimmed the excess. Instead of making a jig where the router is horizontal, I make a simple one where the router is vertical. I removed the base and added a wood one that is on the centerline of the shaft and extends back 5- 6 inches for stability. I plunged the 1/2" bit through the ply. This reduces splintering but you still have to be careful not to cut too fast. To adjust the depth, I set the router with jig on a flat surface with a spacer to raise the bit just clear of the surface. Like several layers of painter tape. I make sure the bit does not dig into the surface - and try out the unit on the underside to make sure it works as intended.
I did this on two large conference tables, walnut ply, walnut edge banding. Worked fine.
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A sharp block plane works fine for trimming hardwood edging flush. Simple, quick, easy.
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I see all the answers, but if you are going to paint them, then only filling the voices with woodfiller makes sense to me. It is fast and easy and will be completely hidden by the paint. It won't peel or break off.
It's the only thing that makes sense to me.
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(08-13-2017, 03:08 PM)DFJarvie Wrote: Glue on edge banding works great. Get an iron and your good to go.
This ^^ Scissors, a trimmer and a file and hit with some sandpaper.
Done.
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(08-16-2017, 11:31 AM)Cooler Wrote: I see all the answers, but if you are going to paint them, then only filling the voices with woodfiller makes sense to me. It is fast and easy and will be completely hidden by the paint. It won't peel or break off.
It's the only thing that makes sense to me.
Plywood edges, even filled with filler or putty, are fragile and subject to damage and dings from anything striking them. Hardwood edging is much more robust and will resist dings and splintering much better than plywood edging.
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More so than seeing the edge brain, which can be filled, is be worried about the veneer lifting/being damaged if the piece will see any use.
I use 3/8" edge banding I prefer to clamp two pieces together at once with two strips together in the middle to achieve even glue pressure and spend the process slightly. But other times it's just pin and go. Tried tape a few times and it worked okay but took forever.
-Marc
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I have a set of these bits.
![[Image: kat_edgeband_flush_set116_big.jpg]](https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/graphics4/kat_edgeband_flush_set116_big.jpg)
The setup takes a while to get exactly right and it has to be done on the router table, but if you have a lot of plywood to edge band this is a good choice. It offers far more gluing surface and it will center perfectly (if you get your setup perfect). It clamps easily or you can micro cross pin it and remove the clamps and go on to the next piece.
But for small projects the setup seems too big for the advantages it offers.
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