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Has anyone used flooring transition T-molding to hang wine glasses? An 8' length is $26.00 from Home Depot. Two 3 foot sections of actual wine rack T-molding costs $27.00 from Amazon.com.
Or is there an easy way to mill this? I cannot picture an easy way to make the real McCoy.
This is the real McCoy:
Here is a project (looks like a nice gift):
Here is flooring t-molding:
Ideally there is a way to make this on the table saw or with my router or router table. I just can't figure a safe way to make this.
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06-02-2020, 10:06 AM
(This post was last modified: 06-02-2020, 10:07 AM by Rob Young.)
(06-02-2020, 09:55 AM)Cooler Wrote: Has anyone used flooring transition T-molding to hang wine glasses? An 8' length is $26.00 from Home Depot. Two 3 foot sections of actual wine rack T-molding costs $27.00 from Amazon.com.
Or is there an easy way to mill this? I cannot picture an easy way to make the real McCoy.
This is the real McCoy:
Here is a project (looks like a nice gift):
Here is flooring t-molding:
Ideally there is a way to make this on the table saw or with my router or router table. I just can't figure a safe way to make this.
Should work fine. To make, I'd think about using a ramped fence on the router-table and a straight bit. Or for one that looks more like the commercial stuff, a straight bit (or rabbeting bit) on the router table and run a wider board through on edge. Then slice off at table saw or bandsaw.
The first picture version should be a bit stronger as it is thicker where the transition occurs.
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I made those on a table saw a couple years back, gearing up to make a few more. I first made the short perpendicular cuts, then turned the board on edge, tilted the blade and raised enough to cut through to the first kerf. Used a featherboard to hold the piece to the fence in front of the blade. The wide flat part rides the fence and trims the angle away. Pretty easy and you can make it safe with the featherboard holding it. Certainly looks better than the T-moulding.
Kevin
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I was thinking of making one in two pieces, with the center T-section being glued in place.
I do have a raised panel bit. I wonder if that would work.
Thanks for the replies.
Best Regards (and stay healthy),
Cooler
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(06-02-2020, 11:20 AM)Kmucha16 Wrote: I made those on a table saw a couple years back, gearing up to make a few more. I first made the short perpendicular cuts, then turned the board on edge, tilted the blade and raised enough to cut through to the first kerf. Used a featherboard to hold the piece to the fence in front of the blade. The wide flat part rides the fence and trims the angle away. Pretty easy and you can make it safe with the featherboard holding it. Certainly looks better than the T-moulding.
Kevin
Kevin
I love that idea,very nice job.
Mel
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(06-02-2020, 11:20 AM)Kmucha16 Wrote: I made those on a table saw a couple years back, gearing up to make a few more. I first made the short perpendicular cuts, then turned the board on edge, tilted the blade and raised enough to cut through to the first kerf. Used a featherboard to hold the piece to the fence in front of the blade. The wide flat part rides the fence and trims the angle away. Pretty easy and you can make it safe with the featherboard holding it. Certainly looks better than the T-moulding.
Kevin
My blade tilts towards the fence.
Is it OK to cut on the "wrong side" of the fence? My fence would allow that.
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(06-03-2020, 08:03 AM)Cooler Wrote: My blade tilts towards the fence.
Is it OK to cut on the "wrong side" of the fence? My fence would allow that.
Sure, put the fence on the other side and use feather boards to hold the stock against it. Easy peasy. I'm pretty sure there was a project in Woodsmith several years back that showed how to make that molding, too.
John
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(06-02-2020, 11:20 AM)Kmucha16 Wrote: I made those on a table saw a couple years back, gearing up to make a few more. I first made the short perpendicular cuts, then turned the board on edge, tilted the blade and raised enough to cut through to the first kerf. Used a feather board to hold the piece to the fence in front of the blade. The wide flat part rides the fence and trims the angle away. Pretty easy and you can make it safe with the feather board holding it. Certainly looks better than the T-moulding.
Kevin
Do it the way Kevin said but if you want safety just put double stick tape back on the cut side and re install the piece of wood that was cut off that way you have the edge back. Hope I explained it OK.
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06-04-2020, 01:34 PM
(This post was last modified: 06-04-2020, 01:36 PM by Dara.)
Easy to do on a table saw
I do them all the time for my wine racks.
Clean up the inside corner with a shoulder plane
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