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not really.
the key is of course that you take small cuts by raising the blade each pass until you get full width.
I generally do the last 2 passes at half the elevation of the first cuts so If I raise the blade 1/2 turn per initial pass I reduce it to 1/4 turn for the last two passes and do it however many times it takes to finish up the cove.
the key is the angle you feed the stock is more or less a cross cut in a trapped guide. that makes it far safer..
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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I have done it several times.I cut the cove in the 320 square feet of Dutch lap siding on this set with a table saw. I wanted a special size that I couldn't buy.
The wood gears guy has a calculator that makes a cove come out the right size without the guesswork.
Here is the link. I have not used it though.
We do segmented turning, not because it is easy, but because it is hard.
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I reproduced a short section of molding for a fellow WoodNetter a couple of years ago:
I cut the cove on the TS. Light cuts leaves a pretty good finish.
After some other cuts and some scraper work and sanding, I had this:
It's not hard to cut coves on the TS and it allows you to use the same wood as the rest of your project for a perfect match.
John
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I did it twice on short runs.
Be prepared, its time consuming, and makes a HUGE mess.
Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)
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I wouldn't want to make more than 8 or 10 feet on the table saw, it creates a lot of sawdust. For a deep cove I'd consider wasting some material with a dado blade on the table saw first. Take small passes and it works well.
RD
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"Boy could I have used those pocket screws!" ---Duncan Phyfe