#16
I have quite a lot of poor quality 3/4" Oak. It was dried badly and has a lot of internal checking, but it was free. It should make excellent wainscoting for the shop, and it will take any amount of abuse. I'd like to make some fancy paneling and need some ideas. With this for practice I may move on to other rooms.
The only durable outdoor finish is live bark.
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#17
Maybe a loose fit tongue and groove on each planed and jointed board? Install on the diagonal for a slightly different appearance.
They told me anybody could do it, but I showed them.
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#18
I like Dave's idea and maybe a slight bevel or round over on the edges.
mike
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#19
How about plain old "ship lap"? Only one groove per edge, and fit isn't critical. Sounds like some nice use of wood, maybe you'll regret using it in the shop.
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#20
Shovel Man said:


I have quite a lot of poor quality 3/4" Oak.




Start a pallet making business

I guess I don't see a lot of poor quality anything being attractive enough to make it part of my home.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#21
heh, I pulled down paneling in our family room that had simulated rotten wood. They could have copied any kind of wood that they wanted, and they pick wood that looks like it has insects crawling out of it. I like spalted wood as much as anyone, but not rotted wood.
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#22
Tongue-and groove, and route some kind of profile on the groove side to conceal any gap that opens up when the boards shrink. Pretty standard practice in mid-century solid-wood paneling.
Steve S.
------------------------------------------------------
Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot

Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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#23
I've done it in a couple different spots in my house with some hard maple.
I was using I think 1/2" thick though so I used a half lap joint and a V cutter router bit on the outside edges.
Worked well.
I'll try to take a pic tonight.

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#24
I purchased a Freud 99-472 and 20-301 router bits for making radius v-groove tongue and groove beadboard from Amazon. I really like the profile.
Any free advice given is worth double price paid.
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#25
If it's truly poor quality wood that may distort as cut or not be very flat in the first place, I think the suggestion to use shiplap rather than tongue and groove has an advantage. If you simply rip a rabbet on each edge with a dado set, there is no chance of catching a trapped cutter in curved stock. Attaching down the covering board should hold the one underneath flat enough for rustic panelling.

If you want the tongue and groove to make sure edges line up better, you may want to use a hand-held router to cut it, so as to be able to follow an edge that may not be straight.
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