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(06-04-2021, 11:29 PM)mdhills Wrote: Why would a pass over the jointer give a better surface than a table saw?
I've often seen this recommended, but still find it surprising -- I'd think a jointer would leave very minor scalloping that wouldn't be any better for a glue surface than a clean cut on a table saw. (although a hand plane would be even better)
Matt
My 4 steps are face joint. edge joint, rip to width on table saw, plane to desired thickness.
During glue up, a jointed edged and a saw cut edge are treated the same. So far it has been working OK.
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Bill
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(06-04-2021, 11:29 PM)mdhills Wrote: Why would a pass over the jointer give a better surface than a table saw?
I've often seen this recommended, but still find it surprising -- I'd think a jointer would leave very minor scalloping that wouldn't be any better for a glue surface than a clean cut on a table saw. (although a hand plane would be even better)
Matt
I straighten one edge on the jointer and then rip to width on the tablesaw. If everything looks good, on to glue. If not, I'll do the other edge.
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I would think it depends on how well you keep the piece you are ripping consistently tight on the fence when feeding it.
I have done glueups both ways. As long as there is no gap when boards are held together hand tight I glue up. If there is a gap, I joint the edge.
I usually joint one edge with the jointer before ripping unless the edge looks pretty straight. In those instances I shave a blade width off, flip the board and rip to width.
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If you’re getting scallops off the jointed edge, you’re doing it wrong or poorly or your blades need sharpening.
Gary
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I don't trust the edges from my jointer or my tablesaw, although I think my jointer edges are probably better. I start with jointed edges and then make a couple of passes with a sharp hand plane, usually a long jointer plane. Then I check the joint by balancing one board on top of the other and passing a flashlight behind the mating surfaces to see how well they mate. If I can see light anywhere along the joint, the mating edges aren't good enough. I continue to work the edges with the jointer plane until they match perfectly and no light comes through. Then the joint is ready for glue. I don't believe in forcing a joint together with clamp pressure.