What white opaque finish would you use?

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

Posting up here for better traffic.

I’m getting ready to help a friend finish a new set of kitchen cabinets and 3 vanities. This is new construction finishing in place. I believe poplar frames and mdf middle fields. The color will be an off white SW 7008 Alabaster color.

I am leaning heavily towards a white tinted pre cat solvent based lacquer. Also thinking a Gemini product unless I have to go SW for the color. I try to avoid SW because they’re always more expensive for me. Great products but not always best value, IMO.

I’ll be using an airless Graco sprayer with fine finish tip. It will pump and atomize pretty much anything.

What finish would you use? I know there’s a lot of new products out there that I haven’t been able to use. The architectural trim will be painted with Ben Moore Advanced waterbourne enamel “trim paint”.

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

Looking like LenMar pre cat lacquer.

[Cabinet Monkey]

VOC based pre-cat is nasty stuff, especially used on site.  New construction won't have people living there, but still.   Why not go with a waterborne product for sitework ?

Gemini makes a lot of waterborne products suitable for kitchen cabinets that would be more appropriate for your project and be easier to use.


Re: the cost - why do you care , especially on this project ?   Cost is borne by the customer and unless you're selling yourself as the cheapest option day in and day out; the finished product is the most important thing.   The material cost is one of the smaller line items.

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

Pre cat is nasty stuff but it’s also a very good finish and I know what I’m capable of achieving with it. I’ve also lived with it for 20 years total on 2 separate kitchens.

I am definitely the cheapest option because this is a time donated project for a very good friend. I don’t want to come across as not willing to spend on quality products. I will spend.

I will look at some of the waterbourne stuff LenMar carries. I will only use a KMCA approved finish.

[Cabinet Monkey]

Pre cat is nasty stuff but it’s also a very good finish and I know what I’m capable of achieving with it.  I’ve also lived with it for 20 years total on 2 separate kitchens. 

I am definitely the cheapest option because this is a time donated project for a very good friend.  I don’t want to come across as not willing to spend on quality products.  I will spend.

I will look at some of the waterbourne stuff LenMar carries. I will only use a KMCA approved finish.

Going with what you know has it’s advantages.  But you asked what the peanut gallery would use.  

You may want to take some time to learn about todays new waterborne coatings, it’s where the industry is headed whether we like it or not.   These new coatings come in many flavors including 2k and pre-cat but don’t have the disadvantage or solvent.   It’s really a different animal and IS NOT anything like BM Advance.  Lots or maybe even most of it is KCMA approved. While paints like Advance take weeks to fully cure, these new resin coatings fully cure in hours.

I personally like Renner 2k, but there are other manuf. with equally good stuff including Milesi and Gemini. Real Gemini not Lenmar.

Perhaps you recall this thread:
https://forums.woodnet.net/showthread.ph...ght=Gemini

You may want to go back and read the last few posts to see how the o.p.’s kitchen turned out with Gemini’s EVO. Which is KCMA rated , and has options for 2k and anti microbial if you desire. Neither are necessary options though.

[jteneyck]

I'd look at the waterbornes from Gemini, Sayerlack, Renner, or Milesi.  I wouldn't use GF's White Poly.  As you said, too thick.  You might consider TC's white lacquer, but I don't think it's in the league of the others.  I used Lenmar Duralaq White satin on some of my kitchen cabinets, but not in a hard use area.  That stuff sprays beautifully and looks like it was done in a factory.

[Sambo]

KCF, 

You asked, so.........
 
I am not a fan of tinted lacquer, but White might be a little more forgiving than what I have used in the past. You stated some color from SW but it was not white. Was the plan to shoot the cabs white with alabaster surrounding or were you going to try to get the tint to match that color? If you are trying to match, shoot lots of samples and use different lights (LED colors range, incandescents range in color as well) to see it and compare. I can tell you that the last set "on site" I did was in Black on knotty alder. I did it over a weekend with NOBODY in the house. Every time I moved the HVLP hose there were little dust clouds coming up off the floor. I finally got it done, but there was a lot of re-shoots due to dust particles flowing in the occasional wind that would get into the lacquer before it set. 

I know you have shot a lot of lacquer, but tinted needs just a little more attention. You might practice on a cabinet or two before just to get the feel. Again, white (or some version that is not black gloss) will probably be easier to work with. I suppose asking "why not just paint?" is a little late at this stage, right?

Scott

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

Scott, yes I’ve shot many cabinets with clear precat with an airless and 1 chair project with black satin sheen. SW 7008 is nearly white and I plan on using a satin or low sheen. I’ll shoot 2 coats of white vinyl sealer first. Then 1-2 finish coats.

I’m using Advance on the trim but I’d like something more durable on the cabinets and vanities. General finishes white poly was another thought but I’m thinking the pre cat will have better chemical resistance. I’ve never used their white poly but I’ve used their clear poly on a few tabletops and some other projects
It has held up well but it is a higher building finish than precat—IMO. Of course repairability is easier with paint. Pro and cons to both finishes.