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11-04-2016, 04:37 PM
(This post was last modified: 11-04-2016, 04:37 PM by Bill_Houghton.)
Can't speak to the chip breaker, but I'd put a new Lee Valley iron in one of my bench planes a couple of years back. My son was helping us on one of the remodels we've done since I retired, and we were scribing and fitting cabinets against the irregular walls of This Auld Haus. Not knowing that I'd put in the aftermarket iron, he commented that the plane was performing better than other planes he'd used.
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11-04-2016, 04:39 PM
(This post was last modified: 11-04-2016, 04:40 PM by Alan S.)
You will not get a single answer to this question.
My opinion is that the greatest advantage of a premium iron and chipbreaker is seen in the case where the existing ones are not fit for work. Premium irons are easier to get to a functional state. Once the back of the iron is flat so you can sharpen it readily, and the chipbreaker fits well, your plane can perform beautifully. Frequency of sharpening is another factor that can come into play, depending on what sorts of things you plane. For planing most US species there's no problem with O1 steel to solve.
I use mostly old Stanley blades, but do admit that among my common users I have one with a Hock blade and one with a Veritas PM-V11 blade. I like these, but have no intention of swapping out the others.
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I put PM-V11 irons and Veritas chip breakers in the planes that have been ground by Tablesaw Tom and I'm very happy.
Thanks, Curt
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At $100 CDN for a LV blade and cap-iron for $10 fleamarket plane seems pricey, but after all that work to bring that find back , I fiquire it's worth it. Someone suggested just the cap-iron.
A man of foolish pursuits
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I'm pretty impressed with Ron Hock's O1 blades and chipbreakers. He makes good A2 blades, but I think his O1 blades hold an edge a very long time. Since I've already re-ironed all my vintage planes, I've not had a need to purchase any other option. All this was before LN, LV, and Woodcraft came out with retrofit blades.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
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I've found you don't need a new chipbreaker in vintage Stanley planes; so if the chip breaker is in good shape, tune it to match the iron and it will likely work for you. I have perhaps 3 Hock O1 replacements with vintage breakers and they all work well for me. $40 for a #4 or #5 replacement ain't that bad, and if you find you need the new breaker, then order it for another $30.
http://www.hocktools.com/products/bp.html
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On a plane rebuilding frenzy, I noticed various manufacturers and over time had different ideas on what makes a adequate chipbreaker. I have a couple # 6s , a English Record and a Swedish Anchor, both from what I can gather, 1952ish. On the Record the cap iron is heavier, longer with a higher hump. Then there are a couple of Stanley #7s, the 1947 has a longer cap iron then the later one. The Anchor has the flattest of them all. On a brand new LV BD #4 1/2 , the cap iron is pretty ordinary, nothing special like their Stanley replacement one they sell. I have no idea what this all means.
A man of foolish pursuits