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If kept well-sealed, years and years.
I use a 3/8 3 tpi "wood turners" blade from Highland Woodworking
Making sawdust mostly, sometimes I get something else, but that's more accident then design.
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Never use anchor seal.... generally get it processed before the hot times of the summer get here. Tarp on ground, tarp on top, all the way around, and keep it in log sections. Best idea I heard of for 'cheap' end grain seal was latex paint, and before it dries, slap some plastic over it. Stays wet.
For bandsaw blades, rough cuts generally 3 tpi, and I prefer 1/2 inch, the slightly thicker ones, and the Lennox Bimetal Diemaster blades. They cost a bit more but cut straighter and far longer than other blades, and can be resharpened many times.
robo hippy
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12-04-2016, 04:28 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-04-2016, 04:30 PM by Arlin Eastman.)
Bill
I have never seen it go bad even after 5+ years and I still have some. For all around bandsaw blade the 1/2" 3tpi hook tooth is the best over all and the hook gets and keeps the chips from clogging. Some people go to the 4tpi but it is all about the same.
For logs that I do upright I use a 1 1/4, 3/4tpi for cutting so it will clear out the really streaming shavings and it the blade keeps straight for the cutting to. Again a 3/4tpi or 1tpi is just as good I am thinking. One other thing I just learned is to not be timid or cutting a corner when it is so easy to change the blade if it is needed. I finally ruined a 1 1/4 blade for cutting 6" plastic pipe for beads of courage boxes.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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Anchor seal stays good for a very long time even when it gets thicker from drying, you can add a little water and whip it up to the thinner consistency again.
I use a 1/2” 3TPI turners bandsaw blade, is a little thicker and has a wider set on it to cut green wood.
Have fun and take care
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I've never had anchorseal go bad.
A large PB jar with brush makes it a lot neater to use. No brush to clean up, it just stays in the jar. Pour in some more when it starts getting low.
A round brush makes it easy to CA the brush to the lid.
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(12-04-2016, 08:18 AM)Bill Mains Wrote: Substitute for anchorseal? If buying anchorseal, how long is it good in the container?
Band saw blade size? Generally cut 3x3 up to 6 or 8 inch wide by 4 to 5 inch high bowls. 3/8 or 1/2 inch blade?
Thanks....Bill
Is that a 3" radius or diameter? If the latter, 3/8 X 3or4 TPI. Good set, as Leo says, when cutting wet wood. Half inch just drags more metal behind in the kerf that cuts nothing. Not needed, even for larger diameters.
http://www.kvwoodcarvingsupplies.com/Ols...20To's.pdf
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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Like already stated, I've never had anchorseal go bad. I will tell you to seal the can tightly as you can. I knocked a can off my work bench and the lid popped off a couple years ago, made a helluva mess. Even after mopping several times the floor still was nasty slick and stayed that way for several months. Substitutes could be old latex paint, garbage bags, stretch wrap, pitch, wax, tarps etc. etc. For band saw blades, cutting bowl blanks and general use I like 3/8 3tpi skip tooth blades and generally resharpen them 2-3 times before changing.
Steve K
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Or, for those who served long ago - water emulsion floor wax.
http://aw-emulsions.com/faq/ will do.
Suppose acrylic might, as well.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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(12-05-2016, 10:45 AM)MichaelMouse Wrote: Or, for those who served long ago - water emulsion floor wax. http://aw-emulsions.com/faq/ will do.
Suppose acrylic might, as well.
I HAD hoped to never see that again.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.