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I use old cotton t-shirts along with compressed air. Wipe and spray as I go. vacuum, vacuum, and vacuum the shop.
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Last step for me is microfiber cloths, always get a bit more dust off...
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(03-17-2017, 10:53 AM)DaveBozeman Wrote: I just put on my 3rd coat of wipe on poly, and steel woll'd (0000) it. What's the best way to get the dust off.
I tried my air compressor, shop vac and a tack cloth, and I can still see traces?
thanks in advance.. Dave
Hi
Dave - assume that your mean 'dust nibs' that dried w/ the finish - correct? If so, best to get the dust out of your shop (sweep, vacuum, etc.) - I usually run my air cleaner for an hour or more or finish in my garage where there is less dust; another option is to put some type of cover over the recently applied finish - see below where I made a speaker case for my brother w/ some old pine boards.
Otherwise, 'finishing the finish' by rubbing will remove the nibs and smooth the surface - products to use include steel wool (real or synthetic), high grit sandpaper (w/ or w/o liquids/lubricants), and/or rubbing compounds; of course, the sheen desired will impact on the items used. Dave
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Piedmont North Carolina
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This is just the dust created by using steelwool after the 3rd coat. I just couldn't seem to get that dust off.
I just tried a light cloth with a little water, that seemed to work the best
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I would not use steel wool between coats (especially if I were working with oak or any other wood with tannins in it). Sandpaper is the far better product to use; I typically use 400 grit, sometimes 600. Vacuuming and wiping with a microfiber cloth work well for me to remove the resultant dust. For round objects where sandpaper is more difficult to use, I would use an abrasive pad, whatever 3M calls them.
John
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320 and air. Takes them nibs right off
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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Vacuum and then microfiber cloth.
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(03-17-2017, 04:34 PM)jteneyck Wrote: I would not use steel wool between coats (especially if I were working with oak or any other wood with tannins in it). Sandpaper is the far better product to use; I typically use 400 grit, sometimes 600. Vacuuming and wiping with a microfiber cloth work well for me to remove the resultant dust. For round objects where sandpaper is more difficult to use, I would use an abrasive pad, whatever 3M calls them.
John
When you use sandpaper, is this all by hand.. or is there some grade of sandpaper I can use with a random orbital sander?
And another question, the sandpaper.. what type should I use?
Sorry.. I know I'm getting off track here
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I would caution you about using the ROS. Some makes are better than others, but you could well wind up with "pigtails" in your finish, little swirly marks that look like, well, pigtails.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
