#25
Almost all day today I've been working on my door. I stripped it with Klean Strip Premium Stripper till it reached 85° and then I sanded everything except the top part since the top was pretty much in perfect condition. I then stained everything with the same stain I used before (but new can) Mohawk Wiping wood stain medium dark walnut (I applied with a brush and then wiped off with a t-shirt rag). Let a couple of hours pass and then I mix together Sherwin Williams All Surface Enamel (which looks like milk!) with mineral spirits, applied it with the wiping varnish method (http://www.askhlm.com/Articles/ArticleVi...rnish.aspx) and not only is my door now cloudy, but when I was wiping the varnish on, my stain was wiping off! I did stop at the first of three coats that was recommended with the wipe on varnish method.
What do I do? I did this all before with no problems, but had used an oil based paint from Hardwood Lumber & More. Do I sand everything again and start over? Either SW All Surface enamel is not a good pick when using stain or the mineral spirits was removing the stain. Maybe I need to say goodbye to the pretty wood grain and just go pick out a color and paint the door.
Sad
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#26
I'm guessing the extra mineral spirits is re dissolving the stain (problem 1), The cloudy appearance is more puzzling. As I recall, there was another post where that finish was used and it dried clear (?). Did you (or can you) take some of you finish and wipe it on a piece of scrap to see if it dries clear in that circumstance? I do think you'll have to start over on the door...but best to try and solve what went wrong first.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#27
I remember the other post, it was a plant shelf but he applied it directly to the (light colored) wood - no stain.
I'm doing a couple tests on a 2x4 to see what and if it will work.
And maybe I also applied too much? It sure is different being milky in color for a deep base vs the deep base I previously used...
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#28
The product is made with naphta as the solvent.  Could you have used one of the newer green mineral spirits ?   I don't know the difference between mineral spirits and naphta when thinning a product other than naphta is a hotter and less oily product.    Call Sherwin Williams customer service as they have been helpful in the past.   Roly
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#29
I used sunnyside mineral spirits. Says low odor, but it's not one of the green ones.
I'm doing some tests. So far did it alone (dries with a whitish sheen), and All Purpose with Penetrol added on top of stain (dries with whitish sheen).
I'm still thinking this product works better for light wood.
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#30
You may need to get a different brand of paint.....I bought a quart of that stuff (All surface) to try it out, but haven't opened the can yet.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#31
What at General Finishes Outdoor oil or 450? Think one of those would work. And Woodcraft is open today...
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#32
Don't know, but I've read plenty of good things about 450. I think John has used some with good results, if he checks in he'll have some input. I'm sure you know, the 450 is a waterborne product, you probably will have to brush it.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#33
If your stain is OB you didn't let it dry long enough, regardless of what might be listed on the can.  You need to let OB stains dry at least 24 hours before putting an OB varnish on top of them, sometimes even longer depending upon the stain and how well it was wiped off.  Less time is required if you spray the topcoat, but you wiped it on which is probably the worst case scenario for lifting the stain back up. 

I know you won't want to hear this, but I would strip the entire door again, and I mean all of it .  You won't get a consistent result trying to match new to old, and the cloudy mess you have now isn't worth the effort to try to save if it even can be.  Strip it off, gently sand it again, if needed, and begin anew. 

I've never used GF's 450 Exterior, but several folks have reported excellent results and durability with it.  But if you want to use that product, you should be sure to use GF's Exterior WB Stains with it.  Don't try to put it over your OB stain and risk more disappointment.  The only way I would try that would be to spray a coat of SealCoat shellac over the OB stain, after it has dried for 3 or 4 days, and then apply the GF 450. 

You've had enough misfires at this point that you really should work out the entire finishing schedule on some pieces of scrap first.  When you're sure you can get the look you want, and the products are compatible, finishing the door will go smoothly.  

John
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#34
Here are a couple of things to consider:
If the stain is an oil based product, you might try waiting longer before applying a topcoat. I always wait 24 hours to let an oil based stain dry. If it is humid where you are, definitely wait.

I have tried Sunnyside brand mineral spirits, both green and regular. I hate the green stuff. It has some white liquid in it, and does NOT dry clear. The low odor stuff I have found problematic also. It also leaves a bit of a white film. I have ditched both types, and gone back to the brand I always used before, Parks I think.

Someone will come along with a lot more knowledge re this than I, I am no Jeff Jewett, that's for sure.

Ed
Ed
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