#45
Question 
Can someone cast a glance at my issue here?  The short story is no water is coming out of my fridge.  My quick investigation found that the water inlet solenoid valve was knocking and rocking wildly.  So it got replaced.  Problem still persisted, so last night I continued to investigate.

The problem I have determined is that the primary solenoid valve is getting a 120V signal for an instant, then dropping to a 60V signal (measured between terminals E & F).  So something is splitting my voltage.

I dug a little further and saw this fridge as a secondary water solenoid valve as well.  I unplugged those and measured voltage.  I had zero volts between A & B and 4.5 V between C & D.  I wedged a cup under the water dispenser (to hold it "on") and measured voltage at the secondary valve again.  I was getting a constant 120V between A & B and 9V between C & D.  Still getting the initial 120V signal and then 60V between E & F at the primary valve.  So it seems that the water dispenser circuit is working correctly.  

My next task is to manually cycle the ice maker to make it call for water.  I believe I've read enough to jumper the terminals in the ice maker to make it signal for water.  

I also plan to peel open that hunk of heat shrink where the tan & violet wires come together and test the diodes.  I'm wondering if the diode on the tan wire for the ice maker failed, and that is splitting the voltage from the purple water dispenser wire and faulting the primary valve.  

On an act of desperation last night I cut the tan wire between D and the heat shrink thinking I was going to physically prevent any voltage back feed.  Didn't work.  Still got 120 V at the primary valve for a second and then down to 60 V steady.  So does this test disprove the failed diode theory?

Unit is a 3 y/o Whirlpool side by side I've had since new.  Still runs fine, just have a little issue with the water circuit.  HELP !

It seems I can't post a pdf link of the wiring diagram here, but it's the top link on this search for W10373993
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#46
I would check for voltage (with the glass wedged by the water dispenser )between A and C should be 0, then between A and F should also be 0. This checks the neutral connections.  Readings other than zero (or close to) indicates an open somewhere close.   Are ice cubes being made ?    Roly
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#47
I have 0.000 V between the neutrals.  

The freezer isn't making ice because no water is getting into the tray.  I believe it would make ice if I could get the signal voltages to the solenoid valves straightened out.
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#48
Does it have a filter? Asking because I just changed the filter in mine, it was overdue, but only by 2 months. I had some water coming out, but not much. In a previous house the fridge water line would freeze in the door. It was a known problem.
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#49
I have to ask if you have pulled any of the water lines to see if the water is available just not making it out at the end.  A friend of mine worked for Sears appliance repair for a while and told me he had lines freeze in the door I don't recall what was done to remedy the problem
Phydeaux said "Loving your enemy and doing good for those that hurt you does not preclude killing them if they make that necessary."


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#50
Does the Whirlpool have  a water filter with a rfd chip in it ?   My GE's filter has to be changed at 6 months or a bypass installed or it will stop the water flow.  Roly
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#51
I am betting on an issue with the water

Silly question- after you replaced the main solenoid did you turn the water supply back on?? Don't ask how I Never mind

Check for water flow starting at the input to the main solenoid. I would be shocked if you don't find a blockage

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#52
GE side by side. If the wife packs the top tray over the ice maker, it can freeze the water inlet...no ice will be made.  The freezer temp has been set too low on mine (it was lowered to make ice faster) and the water line in the door freezes. I run my freezer at 0F. After that correction, the line in the door never froze again. I would try emptying the unit and lettiing it warm up if you find no issues with the water solenoids.


Easy to tell if the solenoids are working...put your finger on the valve and have someone operate the water in the door. You will feel the click.

Another note, there is a connector on mine so the freezer door can be removed (front toe kick).  I separated that and tested the water in the door and got flow.  I knew then the problem was in the door.



Al
I turn, therefore I am!
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#53
After checking for water, can you use jumpers to get 120v to the main solenoid?

Have you checked resistance of all 3 solenoids? They should all be very close to the same. You could have a bad coil on the new one- it could happen.

But I am still thinking water restriction

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#54
It's definitely an electrical problem with the ice maker.  I'm digging now to see just how far back I need to go to get good source voltage to the ice maker.
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Help Diagnose Fridge Water Inlet Problems


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