#12
Question 
I have an Incra 1000SE that I love.  It's close *enough* when it comes to 90* cuts.  But it's off *just enough* that 45* doesn't work--on my latest test cuts, a frame with 25" sides (2.25" wide) *almost* closes completely.  But off enough for me to notice.

Do you just calibrate, test, calibrate, test, wash, rinse, repeat until it works?  I'm getting frustrated here.

I'm using a Woodpecker square to align it to the blade at 90*.  I'm contemplating buying a triangle to set the 45*.  Has anybody done this?  Do you have a supplier you'd recommend?

I'm also thinking of asking for another 1000SE for Christmas that I'll just leave set at 45*!


Laugh
Semper fi,
Brad

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#13
(11-07-2017, 11:21 AM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: I have an Incra 1000SE that I love.  It's close *enough* when it comes to 90* cuts.  But it's off *just enough* that 45* doesn't work--on my latest test cuts, a frame with 25" sides (2.25" wide) *almost* closes completely.  But off enough for me to notice.

Do you just calibrate, test, calibrate, test, wash, rinse, repeat until it works?  I'm getting frustrated here.

I'm using a Woodpecker square to align it to the blade at 90*.  I'm contemplating buying a triangle to set the 45*.  Has anybody done this?  Do you have a supplier you'd recommend?

I'm also thinking of asking for another 1000SE for Christmas that I'll just leave set at 45*!


Laugh I am not familiar with your miter gauge, or any after market miter gauge but have a suggestion that may help.
I will explain how I set a standard miter gauge to a dead 90° and you may be able to do the same with your Incra. 
I loosen my miter gauge locking knob just enough so the head can move. Then I turn it upside down and slide it into the miter slot. When the head is snug against the table I tighten the locking knob. That's all there is to it.
I use my band saw table instead of the table saw because the tube the fence rides on is in the way.
I also can set the miter gauge to 22-1/2° and 45° with an MDF scrap with the slots for the gauge routed into it. 90° could also be done on the MDF.
mike
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#14
Mike, I'll give that a try!  Can't hurt if the table is actually ground square!

Black,  if the above doesn't work, I'll head out to the store.
Semper fi,
Brad

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#15
Stop at a stationary store and pick up a couple plastic drafting triangles. Not a kids geometry set. Cheap and accurate. Handle with a bit of care and they'll last a lifetime.
Blackhat

Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories. 


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#16
I was at the American Society of Precision Engineers meeting last week, and one of the presenters mentioned that drafting triangles are good to a ridiculous level of accuracy.
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#17
A sled will give you your best results for miters.  

Screw down an aluminum framing  square and use the outer edges to rest the rabbet on.  Slice right through the aluminum when you make your first cut.  It is guaranteed to be as accurate as the square you mounted.  

As long as you cut on the opposite sides of the blade the complimentary angles will always add up to 90 degrees and you will always have tight miters.  Even if you are off by 1/2 degree.  One side will be 44½ degrees and the other will be 45½ degrees and will make a tight 90 degree miter.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#18
Don't align it to the blade, align it to the miter slot.
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#19
Down the same path as Phil, did you already make sure your blade is parallel to the slot. When I first used my Incra after moving my TS I found the top/blade out of alignment. I also found to my surprise the Incra was a little off too.
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#20
(11-07-2017, 05:38 PM)Carl10 Wrote: Down the same path as Phil, did you already make sure your blade is parallel to the slot.  When I first used my Incra after moving my TS I found the top/blade out of alignment.  I also found to my surprise the Incra was a little off too.

Your blade can be slightly off from the slot (the closer, the better) provided the gauge is aligned to the slot and not the blade. Always align the gauge to the slot.
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#21
For 45 degree miters, the best method is a sled -  I built one like this, https://www.woodcraft.com/products/table...5oQAvD_BwE  , didn't use their plans, but lets you cut from either side which is quite helpful.  For setting your miter gauge, one trick I read about here was to use a digital angle gauge, like a Wixey  http://www.rockler.com/wixey-digital-ang...nAQAvD_BwE    - extremely accurate -  you set it to the table and zero it out, then set up you miter gauge so that the bar is handing down perpendicular to the table, and stick on the Wixey and you can set it very quickly to any angle you want.
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Calibrating Miter Gauge Woes?


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