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Cut the 45 on the return oversize (in length), then trim to length? That's how I do mine....
Are you trying to cut to length first, then the 45?
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How about making your molding of full thickness material and then just cope the end grain to the same profile?
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Cut the short returns first, off of the long (initial) length of trim.
Steve
Missouri
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
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(11-09-2018, 09:58 AM)joe1086 Wrote: Cut the 45 on the return oversize (in length), then trim to length? That's how I do mine....
Are you trying to cut the return length first, then the 45?
To cut the return, start with an 8" piece of molding. Cut the 45. Measure the return length and cut to size (I lay the return flat on the chop saw).
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(11-09-2018, 09:51 AM)Cooler Wrote: I want to make a medicine cabinet similar to this:
It has a crown molding with a very short return. I have no problem mitering and joining the crown molding. I am trying to figure out how to best trim the return after glue up.
Any suggestions?
My best guess is a Japanese pull saw.
I don't see any reasonable way to cut it to size before glue up, but if there is a safe way to do this I would prefer it. I am loathe to cut so short a piece on my miter saw or my radial arm saw. My hands would be too close to the blade.
No different than mitered returns on window aprons. Take a piece of trim long enough to miter both ends safely on the miter saw. Maybe 8" like another post mentioned.
Then measure the projection needed to the short side of the miter. Make both cuts ,glue it up now or after the long length is installed. I glue the mitered returns first, pin nail and usually brad nail right away. No pin nailer? Tape the glued returns and nail it up after the glue dries.
mike
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(11-09-2018, 09:51 AM)Cooler Wrote: I don't see any reasonable way to cut it to size before glue up, but if there is a safe way to do this I would prefer it. I am loathe to cut so short a piece on my miter saw or my radial arm saw. My hands would be too close to the blade.
I make stacked mitered moldings on entrances, in the shop. Some of the returns around pilasters get short, 1 1/8" long, and need to be mitered on both ends. I have a sliding table on a table saw with De Sta Co clamps that pinch the wood down right next to the blade.
Another way to cut short stuff on a miter saw is to put on a wooden fence, and pinch the work against the fence with a 18" long stick. The pibch stick applies force exactly where it needs to be, and isn't fingers.