#22
Looking to re-do some trim and probably the associated interior doors at the house. 

Plan is to prime with shellac BIN, sand a bit and if needed do some grain fill as some doors are birch (won't need fill) and some have luan shells. Then maybe prime the filled ones again. I think they are mixed like that because previous owner of house had 3 boys so a few replacements were made...

Thinking a latex-enamel trim paint is the right stuff for a top coat. Needs to come in a light tintable base. Most likely spray, 4-stage HVLP turbine so not much problem until I get up to the really, really thick stuff.

Suggestions on brands of paint?

Should also add that this will probably be a "do it as I get time" sort of project so I'd prefer materials that come in 1-gallon quantity and not 5-gal buckets.

Oh, and any experience with chalkboard paints? Have a request that a pantry door be done that way.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#23
Benjamin Moore Advance

Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick

Mark

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#24
(08-13-2019, 02:18 PM)meackerman Wrote: Benjamin Moore Advance
A very long dry time for Advance. 

Breakthrough! (PPG) 250VOC dries very fast.

Behr Marquis consistently gets high marks from Consumers' Reports and is a relative bargain.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#25
we painted some kitchen cabinets with the Advance.  the long dry time didn't bother us.   

The Advance is a waterborne alkyd paint that's supposed to be more durable than other waterborne paints.  

but who knows. 

I do know it went on nice and left a nice smooth finish that still looks good.

Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick

Mark

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#26
Good advice above. You didn't ask about this but, I have painted a lot of luan skinned doors and can give you a little advice when it comes to filling the grain. Use joint compound. Slather it on with a broad taping knife or similar (don't worry about getting it smooth and don't scrape it too thin). Let it dry. Sand it off with 150 grit. Prime and paint. Fast, cheap, easy, and smooth.
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#27
(08-13-2019, 05:15 PM)Willyou Wrote: Good advice above. You didn't ask about this but, I have painted a lot of luan skinned doors and can give you a little advice when it comes to filling the grain. Use joint compound. Slather it on with a broad taping knife or similar (don't worry about getting it smooth and don't scrape it too thin). Let it dry. Sand it off with 150 grit. Prime and paint. Fast, cheap, easy, and smooth.

Yep. That was my basic plan for dealing with the luan. Either joint compound or Durham's (I have a 4lb can -- had it a LONG time). I've experimented a bit with grain filling under clear finishes with the Durham's (works fine) and with plain ol' plaster-of-paris (also works fine). But the joint compound may be the quickest in this application.

Order of operations would probably be:
Clean well
Scuff sand
Patch any holes (found one in the pantry door under a sheet of cork that had been stuck on the door) with Bondo
Prime with BIN
Grain fill if needed
Further touch-ups
Prime again 
Paint (i.e. the color coat which could be the Duralaq as mentioned elsewhere).
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#28
(08-13-2019, 02:08 PM)Rob Young Wrote: Looking to re-do some trim and probably the associated interior doors at the house. 

Plan is to prime with shellac BIN, sand a bit and if needed do some grain fill as some doors are birch (won't need fill) and some have luan shells. Then maybe prime the filled ones again. I think they are mixed like that because previous owner of house had 3 boys so a few replacements were made...

Thinking a latex-enamel trim paint is the right stuff for a top coat. Needs to come in a light tintable base. Most likely spray, 4-stage HVLP turbine so not much problem until I get up to the really, really thick stuff.

Suggestions on brands of paint?

Should also add that this will probably be a "do it as I get time" sort of project so I'd prefer materials that come in 1-gallon quantity and not 5-gal buckets.

Oh, and any experience with chalkboard paints? Have a request that a pantry door be done that way.


BM Advance is nice stuff.  If you thin it with 4% H2O and add 3% of BM's Extender it should spray fine with your gun, and spray thin enough that it will dry pretty quickly and cure enough that you can put it into light duty service in 4 or 5 days.  Advance is not a good choice if you want light colors, however, because they tend to yellow over time.  

BM also sells Lenmar Duralaq.  It can be tinted to any of their 3000+ colors, sprays great, and dries and cures very fast, fast enough to put into service in a day or two.  For KCMA rated products, BM carries Lenmar MegaVar, or you could order TC's EM-6500 which they can tint to any of BM's colors.  Both should spray fine with your gun.  

John
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#29
(08-13-2019, 08:32 PM)jteneyck Wrote: BM Advance is nice stuff.  If you thin it with 4% H2O and add 3% of BM's Extender it should spray fine with your gun, and spray thin enough that it will dry pretty quickly and cure enough that you can put it into light duty service in 4 or 5 days.  Advance is not a good choice if you want light colors, however, because they tend to yellow over time.  

BM also sells Lenmar Duralaq.  It can be tinted to any of their 3000+ colors, sprays great, and dries and cures very fast, fast enough to put into service in a day or two.  For KCMA rated products, BM carries Lenmar MegaVar, or you could order TC's EM-6500 which they can tint to any of BM's colors.  Both should spray fine with your gun.  

John

Did not know about the yellowing bit.

Not terribly worried about the 30-day to full strength issue with the BM Advance. But the Duralaq intrigues me. As this is a pantry door, not sure I need the full KCMA magilla.

Need to get the significant-other working on the color swatches. I cannot be trusted with those...
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#30
re: chalkboard paint -- anybody with experience using that stuff?

The current plan is to coat a sheet of thin MDF or masonite then frame it. This then mounts to the pantry door. Door is a bit on the narrow side so I thought it might be easier to make a chalkboard instead of buying one. And I can fiddle with the frame profile and chalk tray so that they more-or-less match the intended trim for the kitchen (did I mention that's probably going to change too?).
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#31
BM advance sprays very nice with 10% water out of my 4 stage. Pro Classic takes more thinning. Advance dries to touch pretty quick but full cure does take time. I haven’t noticed any yellowing over 5 years on my house trim. OB yellows like crazy. I’ll clear coat with GF HP if I’m going for my best finish. My kitchen table legs look great and feel like butter with this combo. I wouldn’t take the time on house trim though.


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trim paint recomendation


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