#12
I did a table with GF EnduroVar. It has been curing for a couple weeks. I leveled it with 320 sandpaper then worked down to P5000 3M Trizac wet sanding. It doesn't need to be any glossier but there are some swirl marks. What can I do next to get out the swirl marks? The table is an octagon with a burl veneer starburst bordered with cherry so the grain is going in all different directions.
Reply

#13
I wonder if you have some left over scratches from the 320 grit. I think that is very coarse to start polishing your finish. I almost never put anything coarser than 600 wet/dry on a new finish. I always do my final polish with 1000 - 2000 grit (might start with 600) wet/dry using water w/ a little soap in it by hand with the grain. That way, any sanding marks left are not noticeable. If I need any better polish I use an automotive polishing compound after the wet sanding.
Reply
#14
If the swirl marks are in or under the finish you won't be able to remove them short of stripping off the finish and starting over.  If they are on the surface than you should be able to remove them with automotive swirl remover on a ROS with appropriate foam pad.  

John
Reply
#15
I tried some Meguires low cut swirl remover and it didn't seem to do much than polish the surface. The scratches were still there. I then got some medium cut Meguires. I used a terry cloth applicator and put it on the bottom of my ROS. It took out the deeper scratches but still left a swirl pattern so I went back over by hand in one direction. Now I have the scratches all going in one direction. I may try the low cut stuff tonight by hand. It is sitting in my finishing booth that only has raking light so it might look better if I put it in a more normal lighting situation.
Reply

#16
(01-08-2020, 07:58 AM)CEPenworks Wrote: I tried some Meguires low cut swirl remover and it didn't seem to do much than polish the surface. The scratches were still there. I then got some medium cut Meguires. I used a terry cloth applicator and put it on the bottom of my ROS. It took out the deeper scratches but still left a swirl pattern so I went back over by hand in one direction. Now I have the scratches all going in one direction. I may try the low cut stuff tonight by hand. It is sitting in my finishing booth that only has raking light so it might look better if I put it in a more normal lighting situation.

So that tells you you had really deep scratches.  Now use the low cut swirl remover on you ROS.  That should get rid of the scratches left by the medium cut.  If they make a fine cut you may need that one to get rid of what's left by the low cut product.  

John
Reply

#17
(01-08-2020, 09:56 AM)jteneyck Wrote: So that tells you you had really deep scratches.  Now use the low cut swirl remover on you ROS.  That should get rid of the scratches left by the medium cut.  If they make a fine cut you may need that one to get rid of what's left by the low cut product.  

John

Yes.  I go a lot higher on the grit when sanding 800 - 1200 then do the Macquires.  Use the stuff you used then use the auto finish from them.  Just did that on a table and it came out great.  I did use a buffer with a terri cloth bonnet.  I got the buffer at HF for $15 with coupon.  Not a great machine but for the price it is worth it.
John

Always use the right tool for the job.

We need to clean house.
Reply
#18
I have not used it yet, but am planning on for my next project:  Mohawk Wool-lube.  No local retailers.  I will have to order it on line.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hb3cmKC_EhY



https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/product...ant-paste/
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
Reply

#19
(05-11-2020, 02:45 PM)Cooler Wrote: I have not used it yet, but am planning on for my next project:  Mohawk Wool-lube.  No local retailers.  I will have to order it on line.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hb3cmKC_EhY



https://www.mohawk-finishing.com/product...ant-paste/

Thanks for posting that video.
Reply
#20
Violin makers like to use Novus #2 plastic polish. The result is fabulous but requires a good amount of elbow grease.
Reply
#21
Not to highjack, but I am finishing up a large buffet from cherry and using Waterlox original sealer/finish. I wiped on 3 heavy coats and rubbed it down with gray pads. I wiped on two additional thin coats and I am going to let it dry a few more days. I will need to rub it out for the final look. I don't want any glossy shiny look. I do have wool lube that I can use with fine steel wool, or gray pads, but before I use that, is there any other products that I should look at?
Reply
Rubbing out finish


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.