#8
It's cost isn't an issue but I'd like to know people's comments and, more particularly, any "tricks" you've learned.
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#9
Don't assume it is completely dry, when it turns white.
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#10
I prefer setting compound for the job.  20min. Open time is my preferred version and it forms a stronger / more dense filling.
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#11
(12-29-2023, 11:13 PM)Cabinet Monkey Wrote: I prefer setting compound for the job.  20min. Open time is my preferred version and it forms a stronger / more dense filling.

The nice thing about hot mud is it doesn't have to be completely dry before the next coat. The high spots can be easily shaved off with a wide knife because it cures throughout as opposed to the thin areas drying faster. Also less air bubbles because you know it's mixed.

I've tried a bunch of different "bucket" muds and I always go back to USG Greentop. If I'm doing a bigger job, the bucket mud is fine for me although I do prefer hot mud doing corners. I didn't care at all for the lightweight "dustless" stuff. It clogs the sandpaper real fast. Yea, it's cleaner but harder to work with.

Don't know anything about color changing mud, IMHO, i isn't difficult to tell when it's dry enough to work with. Air movement is the key. A ceiling fan helps a lot.
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#12
(12-30-2023, 07:27 AM)Snipe Hunter Wrote: Don't know anything about color changing mud, IMHO, i isn't difficult to tell when it's dry enough to work with. Air movement is the key. A ceiling fan helps a lot.

i used the color changing stuff a little. I learned that color changing didn't seem to be a good indicator that it was thoroughly dry.
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#13
A warning about setting mud is that it can create paint flashing even when well primed. I would recommend bucket mud as a final top coat.
Any free advice given is worth double price paid.
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3M color changing spackling compound


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