Kick back question

[Cooler]

I’ve adjusted the fence. It is still out of parallelism by 0.002” according to my vernier caliper. Should I keep playing with it, or is this close enough?

[Stwood_]

I myself would call that good, if the far reaching end of the fence is away from the blade that distance.

[Hank Knight]

Me too, especially if it's wide at the back. I set mine a hair wide at the back. ("Hair" is a technical term. .002 is within the parameters of one "hair.")

[Cooler]

Thanks for all the replies.

Cooler

[Cooler]

And that brings to mind having a decent outfeed table.  Which I don't have (but did long ago), and I use rollers and/or one of those floppy Rigid tables.  But thinking back to when I did have one, it's psychologically easier to push beyond the blade when you aren't thinking about what the stock will do after it's beyond the blade.  It's just a deeper saw table. And with my Biesemeyer fence hanging back there, there's just so much additional guidance for a push block that straddles the fence.

I really should get off my arse and make one.

I've built a new out feed table.  It is exactly sized as the Festool MFT/3 table, but with a undercarriage of 2" x 4" lumber and a bottom shelf of 3/4" MDF.

I am waiting for the leveling feet to arrive.  

This table is heavy enough to stay in place.  It is not anchored to the saw.  

Do I level the table to be exactly even with the saw's surface, or just slightly lower than the saw?  I'm thinking about 1/16" lower than the saw to prevent any possible issues with the material hitting the edge of the out feed table and tipping it over.  (It's too heavy to tip over, but it would be a problem if it the stock caught on the edge of the table.  

The table is going to do double duty as an assembly table, so some mobility might be required.

[Roly]

I've built a new out feed table.  It is exactly sized as the Festool MFT/3 table, but with a undercarriage of 2" x 4" lumber and a bottom shelf of 3/4" MDF.

I am waiting for the leveling feet to arrive.  

This table is heavy enough to stay in place.  It is not anchored to the saw.  

Do I level the table to be exactly even with the saw's surface, or just slightly lower than the saw?  I'm thinking about 1/16" lower than the saw to prevent any possible issues with the material hitting the edge of the out feed table and tipping it over.  (It's too heavy to tip over, but it would be a problem if it the stock caught on the edge of the table.  

The table is going to do double duty as an assembly table, so some mobility might be required.

I would place a bevel on the edge nearest the saw so if something would drop a little it would cause it to ride back up.   Roly

[TDKPE]

I would place a bevel on the edge nearest the saw so if something would drop a little it would cause it to ride back up.   Roly

Beat me to it.  That is exactly what I would do, and have done in the distant past. 

The Rigid tilt-table free-standing support that I use now tilts toward the saw, and it can handle a surprising amount of material sag and still guide it up and onward without getting hung.  I would think a small gap wouldn't take much of a bevel.

[Stwood_]

Either a long bevel, or drop it lower. Much lower.
I've had laminate to hang up. I've had 1/4" ply to bow and hang up.

[TDKPE]

Either a long bevel, or drop it lower. Much lower.
I've had laminate to hang up. I've had 1/4" ply to bow and hang up.

I was just looking at my saw, and the Biesemeyer fence extends about 9-1/2" past the rear edge of the saw top.  A small bit of wood clamped to the underside of the fence would fill the gap to any outfeed table, for those times when something thin and flexy has to be ripped and may cause a problem.  It would be flush with the table since the bottom of the fence rides on the table.

It could even have a small bevel at the leading edge to make the joint more invisible to the work, and could be made long and simply clamped at whatever width (left/right) is needed to support the work, short of the guard support if one is used.  Only used when needed, of course.  I would prefer the outfeed table to be in-plane with the saw table, but that's me.

Just a thought.

[Cooler]

Either a long bevel, or drop it lower. Much lower.
I've had laminate to hang up. I've had 1/4" ply to bow and hang up.

I have on order four independent levelers.  I can drop it as much as 3/4" below the table surface.  Or I can have the leading edge low and the trailing edge at saw table height.  

I am also waiting for the 3/4" auger-tip drill bit and a 3/4" bushing so that I can drill this out like a Festool MFT/3 table.  The image below is not really correct.  The Festool table has 11 rows of 7 holes each.   This one has 7 rows of 6 holes.