Circular planes?

[Zalsa]

Folks:
I like to curve the edges of the top of my pieces - e.g., a bow in the front edge of the top of a dresser, etc. Typically, I mark the curve using a bowed piece of thin wood, rough cut it on a bandsaw, and then clean up using a #4 skewed to minimize the contact with the sole so that it doesn't flatten out the curve. I then use a spokeshave followed by scraper and sandpaper. This generally works well if I stay focused on not erasing the pencil line - but if I don't - I tend to get a curve that changes over the length of the edge - or I get chatter from the spokeshave that has to be cleaned up.
This has me wondering if I should invest in a compass plane - like a #20 or 113.
For those who have those and use them - how do you like using them? Any limitations you would highlight? Do you think they would be an improvement over my current method? Would you recommend the 20 over the 113?
Any comments about your experiences would be appreciated.
Thanks!

[Peter Tremblay]

Hello,

I've done a little bit of this type of thing before. Not with whole drawer fronts but large handles and small handles on the sides and front of chests.

I did bent laminations in a pre-cut form. I glued up a bunch of thing pieces from the bandsaw in the form. Waited 24 hours for the glue to fully dry and then after I trimmed to size I used a heavy scraper to clean up the faces of the curve (inside and out)

I've never used those plane so I can't help you there. Sorry

[Zalsa]

As a clarification - I am not talking about bowed drawer fronts - but table tops edges, dresser top edges, etc.

[Steve N]

I have only seen pics of a 20, and never used one, but in pics they look stiff. I have several 113's and they just form a nice curve quickly, and with a sharp blade do a pretty good job of forming a curve. If you have ever used a Stanley 71 versus a LV router plane the following will make sense.

You have to really keep a close eye on the 113 that it hasn't slightly changed it's setting, and you are now forming a different radius. The way it is made makes it hard to stay adjusted, and easy to knock it out of adjustment. I hope that makes sense.

In that regard the 20 which I have always imagined would be harder to adjust due to what I perceive as it's bulkiness, probably will stay adjusted longer, but that is just a guess. Possibly that is an incorrect guess. I note none of the modern day makers make a circular plane. Maybe not enough market, but maybe they haven't been able to improve on the originals.

If I had a project that I had time involved in. I would make said curves as you are now, mostly with the BS, and hand tools to dress it up. You nailed it, you need to stay on the line, or you will create an offset monster. Maybe I just need more time with the circular planes? If you can get one cheap, they are a lot of fun to play with

Ohhh forgot to mention, pretty thin blades, and a flexed sole make for some chatter. I've found that a deal breaker on woods with a crossing grain, not so much on soft maple, cherry, even walnut. Again, maybe just me, and my short use of the tool, but I find making a groove downward much easier than an arch upward. Really not sure why, likely my poor mechanics.

[jppierson]

I just went downstairs and tried using a spoke shave and circular plane as a comparison. I get a much smoother planing cut with the plane. It is more difficult to see what you are doing with the circular plane. But it is also less prone to rock during each stroke and you get a really nice smooth surface. It is more difficult to set up the spoke shave ( I don't have the nifty two screw adjuster.) So if you are fairing the curve(s) go with the circular plane. If you are roughing it out somewhat and intend on rounding the edge use the spoke shave. I will say that sharpening the compass plane blade is much easier than the short spoke shave blade.

Now take this with a small grain of salt. I am not the most experienced woodworker, the trials I just did were on white oak scrap.

The compass plane I have is a type 1. Later types have a set screw on the circumference adjusting knob that locks in the desired radii. The newest use similar adjusting mechanism as bailey planes. Also, the compass plane is not the most robust or inexpensive plane in the world. So it has its place as a finesse, fairer (boat building?) and smoother.

Hope this helps.

[Mike Brady]

I'll be watching this thread . An acquaintance just bought a 113 at a hefty price to use an making a chest with very fancy scalloped drawer fronts. When he showed me his prized find I was very cautious to not dash his hopes for the circular plane. I suggested that a well-adjusted band saw followed by hand scrapers would be an approach, as would an oscillating drum sander. It seems like an awesome task regardless of the method.

Based on zero experience, the 113 would not appear to be the answer.

The front is sort of like this.

[Zalsa]

There are a number of them priced between $150-200:

Vintage Tools

And some 13s at closer to $100:


Any comments/advice on these?
Jim Bode

[Steve N]

WOW, I'll have to go looking for those 113's I guess, move em into the vault

[DFJarvie]

I have a 20 and have used it a bit. It has a small throat so your not taking a ton off at a time. I would need to use it more to get the most from it.

[dustyrag]

I have a #20 which is complete, but not as pretty as those. It's lost some nickle and has some rust. I've never used it and it is sitting around until I get a chance to clean it up. I could be convinced to sell it for a modest fee.