(09-13-2017, 11:52 PM)MidwestMan Wrote: Hello everyone .... I am considering buying a hollowing tool. Although, I'm not going to immediately get into hollowing anything... it sure looks like it would be much easier to make a bowl, with one.
Right now, I use a bowl gauge and I am fair at it. It seems like the hollowing tool that I'm considering can whip out a bowl very quick and safer.
I'm considering the "D-Way". http://d-waytools.com/hollowing-tools/
What are the thoughts of all you guys? I would like to hear what you all think.
Most of the hollowing systems are scrapers at heart. That means that you will usually get a fair amount of tear out at 2 points in the revolution of the turning. For a hollow form where the buyer/admirer can not see or touch those parts of the form, that is no big deal. For something like a bowl or vase large enough to put your hand in, that tear out causes issues.
The exception is something like the termite tool and the similarly shaped cutter on a hollowing system, but the termite is very hard to keep sharp and both of them tend to grab/catch a lot. The version for the hollowing system with the lid that restricts cutting has been on my desire list but they are way too pricey for my budget.
With that as preface, there are basically 4 different approaches to hollowing tools that I have seen:
1) articulating arm
- This is what I bought and like a lot. I got mine from Monster Lathe Tools. The company was basically a WNer until he died. Then his daughter and SIL took on the business. I got the basic system about a year after the WNer passed and I have added components since then. They were always great to work with and their stuff was top notch. Unfortunately, it looks like they closed their business earlier this year. There are some reports that they are trying to restart the business but I am not sure. If they do, I have no hesitation in recommending them on quality and integrity.
2) captive system
- Lyle Jamieson's (in Arlin's link) is probably the best known commercial version and is very well made and Lyle is a pleasure to work with. I have used homemade versions of these at the shops of fellow club members and they are a good way to go whether you build your own or buy one from Lyle or his competition.
3) forearm brace hollowing tools
- The Stinger/Scorpion were the market leaders in this type (IMHO). It is like take a forearm crutch brace and attaching a hollowing tool to it after a pistol grip. So far, my imagination about what happens in a bad catch has prevented me from trying this type.
4) hand held turning tools
- Best Wood Tools and Hunter both make carbide tools with hooked ends and Sorby makes several versions. For experimenting with hollowing and doing a few vessels, these are quite good. You have to be attentive about how flat you keep the shaft and how fast you cut.
The D-Way link that you posted is a cross between types 2 & 4. It would not be my first choice.
In all cases, one of the most important things to remember is to stop frequently and get the sawdust and shavings out of the vessel. If the shavings fill up the vessel, they will build up against the tool and blow out the sides of the vessel (or, worse, cause it to shatter at full speed).
There is nothing wrong with learning to use a hollowing system on bowls and cups other than the tear out that I mentioned at the beginning. It just is not optimum if the bowl is open enough to use a gouge all the way around the inside surface.
Also, the systems tend to have options for laser assistance with wall thickness. Stuart Batty worked out using an inspection camera and monitor instead of the laser,. That approach is a huge improvement over the laser.