Home Made Veneer Help
#13
This is a standard technique for "cheating" on drawerfronts to imitate 1/2 blinds.
Veneer a little thick. I typically go 1/8".

For bookmatching shoot the edges with a hand plane.  Alternate faces down to cancel out any angle error. Tape seams together and glue. There are videos you can watch about this.

To attach veneer, clamp using a caul covered in packing tape.
Reply
#14
(01-13-2018, 09:54 AM)sawnuts Wrote: Is it OK to leave the glued side slightly rough? This may help with glue creep possibly. I recall that " in the day" panels were flattened with a toothing plane then glued

Am I wrong?

Mark

That technique was used with hot hide glue.  I don't really know why, but I do know that hide glue is both gap filling and rigid.  Modern glues aren't gap filling with the exception of epoxy.  Many aren't rigid either, like Titebond.  Lots of folks glue down shop sawn veneer straight off their bandsaw and report good results.  I sand both sides smooth. 

With no drum sander or bandsaw I would book match thicker stock, glue those pieces together, then glue a planed face to the drawer face.  After the glue had dried, I would "resaw" it on my TS, half way through, then flip it over and do the other half.  You should be able to handle a drawer front at least 6" wide that way.  

John
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.