What to use over boiled linseed oil
#11
I have a wine rack I'm building out of cherry. I'm thinking of boiled linseed oil, to make the cherry "pop". How would laquer be on top of the cherry? How durable?

Thanks!

T.
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#12
Lacquer will work fine over the top of BLO as long as it's cured somewhat before you apply it. But lacquer is not the most durable of finishes. I'm not sure how much wear/tear a wine rack would have, so it might be perfectly acceptable in that use.

PS, I'm guessing you refer to NC lacquer.
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#13
(09-17-2018, 05:33 AM)fredhargis Wrote: Lacquer will work fine over the top of BLO as long as it's cured somewhat before you apply it. But lacquer is not the most durable of finishes. I'm not sure how much wear/tear a wine rack would have, so it might be perfectly acceptable in that use.

PS, I'm guessing you refer to NC lacquer.

What would be your suggestion Fred? This is a Christmas gift doe daughter, that has cherry cabinets, darkened a bit, but natural grain showing.

Thanks,

T.
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#14
(09-16-2018, 03:06 PM)Tony Z Wrote: I have a wine rack I'm building out of cherry.  I'm thinking of boiled linseed oil, to make the cherry "pop".  How would laquer be on top of the cherry?  How durable?

Thanks!

T.

I think spar varnish is a good choice. It's durable, compatible with BLO, moisture resistant and pretty.
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#15
Varnish would probably be my choice as well. Probably not a spar varnish, though it wouldn't matter in this application.
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#16
(09-22-2018, 03:09 PM)fredhargis Wrote: Varnish would probably be my choice as well. Probably not a spar varnish, though it wouldn't matter in this application.

How about something like Waterlox?
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#17
Waterlox Original is a varnish, and a very good one. Made with tung oil as the drying oil, it is much darker than most. It's also very durable. Just be aware it will take several (as in many) coats, since this is usually a little thinner than most other oil based varnishes. If you don't mind the dark color, it will be  a great finish.
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#18
(09-23-2018, 10:48 AM)fredhargis Wrote: Waterlox Original is a varnish, and a very good one. Made with tung oil as the drying oil, it is much darker than most. It's also very durable. Just be aware it will take several (as in many) coats, since this is usually a little thinner than most other oil based varnishes. If you don't mind the dark color, it will be  a great finish.

Thanks Fred - advice much appreciated!
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#19
(09-23-2018, 10:48 AM)fredhargis Wrote: Waterlox Original is a varnish, and a very good one. Made with tung oil as the drying oil, it is much darker than most. It's also very durable. Just be aware it will take several (as in many) coats, since this is usually a little thinner than most other oil based varnishes. If you don't mind the dark color, it will be  a great finish.

He could test the darkness on a sample and compare to the existing (darkened) cabinets, right?
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#20
BLO takes a LONG time to fully cure - several days to a week.  I recommend just letting the BLO cure, with no top coat of any other finish.  You'll end up with a satin finish.  If you're after gloss, you'll need to let the BLO cure for at least a week - maybe more - and then lightly sand the surface with 320 grit prior to applying the lacquer.
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