3 hp Cabinet saw
#31
anyone know the difference between the Grizzly G1023RL and the G0690. is the 690 worth the extra money
Reply
#32
(12-17-2018, 07:07 PM)Buckhunter Wrote: anyone know the difference between the Grizzly G1023RL and the G0690. is the 690 worth the extra money
The main differences:

The G0690 is the old Unisaw 3 belt  trunnion design with an added riving knife.  The dust port comes out the right side.   No dust shroud under the blade,  It was also reported that it has a Leeson motor although it is made in China.  The fence is upgrade from the Shop Fox classic that has 2 pieces of metal that wrap around the front tube to help with the movement at the back of the fence you get when you lock it down.  I played with this fence in the showroom and it slides very smooth.

The G1023RL is a redesign from the ground up with a riving knife, a serpentine belt and blade dust shroud.  The dust port comes out the back.  The motor is the standard Grizzly motor.  The fence is the standard Shop Fox classic.

Both saws get excellent feedback.
"There is no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid people"
Reply
#33
There's a 1023 just showed here in the S&S, located in Texas
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








Reply
#34
found a 5 hp PM 66 on craigslist ...... is there a downside for a 5 hp compared to a 3 hp saw
Reply
#35
Heavier circuit required, and make sure it's not 3-phase.  I've seen used machines advertised at single-phase when they weren't, and vice-versa.

More oomph if it grabs a board to throws it at you, though 3 hp can do an excellent job of launching lumber too.

That's all I can think of.
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
Reply
#36
(12-20-2018, 08:59 PM)Buckhunter Wrote: found a 5 hp PM 66 on craigslist ...... is there a downside for a 5 hp compared to a 3 hp saw

As TDKPE said, sometimes these machines are 3 phase and not advertised as such. Three phase requires either a phase converter or a VFD. 5 HP VFD's can get pricey. 

From my perspective, there is little downside to a 5 HP cabinet saw vs a 3 HP saw, aside from the electrical requirements already mentioned. If it's in good shape and running properly and the price is right, could be a good buy.

Doug
Reply
#37
The table saw motor in my European style combination machine is 5 hp and that's significantly better than the 3 hp saw I had before.

Just make sure that you can get the electricity to power it.
If not you could probably shift the motor for a smaller one. Though keep the old one because some day someone is bound to want to upgrade back to 5 hp.

I think you should also try to find out whether the saw can be retrofitted with some sort od riving knife.
Part timer living on the western coast of Finland. Not a native speaker of English
Reply
#38
(12-21-2018, 12:06 AM)Tapper Wrote: From my perspective, there is little downside to a 5 HP cabinet saw vs a 3 HP saw, aside from the electrical requirements already mentioned.

(12-21-2018, 02:21 AM)TGW Wrote: The table saw motor in my European style combination machine is 5 hp and that's significantly better than the 3 hp saw I had before.

Just make sure that you can get the electricity to power it.

Just for fun, I compared 3 and 5 hp curves of Baldor C-face motors of similar design, at different levels of loading, for power consumed.

At 0.25 hp output (approximated running with no load):

5 hp - 0.6 kW
3 hp - 0.6 kW

At 1.5 hp output:

5 hp - 1.5 kW
3 hp - 1.6 kW

At 3.0 hp output:

5 hp - 2.7 kW
3 hp - 3.0 kW

Only kW registers on your residential meter, so using amps x volts results in a higher value (kVA) than the actual energy you pay for (kW).  

The 5 hp also has a higher power factor (0.98 at 100% load) even at less than full load because it has a run capacitor, while the 3 hp does not (0.91 PF at 100% load).  My 3 hp Unisaw motor, made in the 90's by Marathon, also has a run capacitor, and only draws 4.2A at no-load and 12.4A rated at 3 hp.  I have the curves somewhere around here, but from memory, power factor was also around 0.98. The curve I used for the 3 hp Baldor shows 14.5A at rated load.

So the long and the short of it is, there's no real penalty in energy cost running that larger motor at reduced load, and if the big motor has a run capacitor, will actually cost less to run.  More power, costs less to run - a hot rodder's (or go-fast boater's) dream.  
Laugh
Tom

“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
Reply
#39
(12-15-2018, 09:10 AM)Buckhunter Wrote: after all your responses to my Hybrid saw post ,I have decided to go ahead and put a 220 circuit in my shop and buy a 3 hp cabinet saw . I intend to use my Incra TS-LS fence so the fence that comes with the saw isn't that important . 

Looking for opinions on brands and models and best bang for the buck .

Just happens that I have a 3hp Cabinet saw for sale in the tools for sale section.  This saw has only a couple of hours use on it.  here is a link to info about the saw

http://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/deluxe-x...p/708675PK
TODAY IS THE OLDEST YOU'VE EVER BEEN, YET THE YOUNGEST YOU'LL EVER BE, SO ENJOY THIS DAY WHILE IT LASTS.
Reply
#40
(12-21-2018, 02:58 PM)captjack Wrote: Just happens that I have a 3hp Cabinet saw for sale in the tools for sale section.  This saw has only a couple of hours use on it.  here is a link to info about the saw

http://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/deluxe-x...p/708675PK
I just messaged you.
Rick
Any government that robs Peter to pay Paul, can always count on the support of Paul!
MAGA!!
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.