What's the consensus on hanging upper cabinets....gang 'em or individually?
#21
Thank you everyone.
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#22
We always hung the uppers first that way you can use a dead man and get closer to the
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#23
Thought about hanging the uppers 1st, but they wanted to be able to template for the counter tops ASAP, so the lowers went in 1st.
Dumber than I appear
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#24
(03-04-2019, 11:41 AM)Phil Thien Wrote: Good timing for this thread.

If you don't assemble the cabinets in a row before hanging, how do you know whether you will be able to get the face frames to flush?

If, for example, the wall is a little wavy and you screw the first cabinet to the wall, then go to install the 2nd cabinet, is it not possible that the face frames with be slightly gappy and you'll have to adjust the first cabinet?  Or do you just pull the face frames flush and screw them off and allow the somewhat flexible cabinet to adjust?


Don't pull the first cab completely tight against the top of the wall, or just back the screws off a bit.
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#25
I've always hung uppers first, as in the video. Two things the video did not make clear. The ledger board can be used to show valleys and humps in the wall. I have a long level(6' or so) that I use to determine wall topography. A string line along the top of the wall will also highlight differences. I have seen installs where shims were installed vertically to minimize cabinet warpage.

Seldom have I had enough help to gang cabinets before installing. And, if there are only one or two cabinets, I use my third hand tool instead of a ledger. I even had a short third hand for using when the lowers were installed.

Humorous story. A fellow called me asking what I would charge to help him hang cabinets. He wanted to do it himself and decided to use a drywall lift. He discovered the lift had to be tire to stay level and trying to tie it level and set cabinets on it was way more than he could do. I had done some work for his neighbor, so he called me. I decided to help and found out he was hanging the cabinets in a mobile home----meaning the screws had to go along the top, since vertical studs were not exactly 16" OC. He had no idea.
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#26
I've always set the lowers first, with the counter top. It gives you a workbench. I would cover it with moving blankets.
Install the uppers, using my modified camper leveling jacks to set the upper on.
Get the uppers hung, I would have a workbench (lowers) right there to lay my tools, assemble the door hinges and hang the doors.
A place to lay your nail gun when installing the crown molding......etc......etc.....
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#27
(03-04-2019, 10:20 AM)Dumb_Polack Wrote: Fellas,

I installed the lowers in our church rectory and I'll be hanging the uppers once the counter tops get installed.  There are 2 ways to go on the uppers:

1) Assemble a run of them on the floor and then hump them up and install it as 1 unit.

2) Install them 1 @ a time

I like option A better because I can gang them all together, ensuring the face frames are flush and then shimming them off the the wall to get them dead nuts vertical.  However, if the end cabinet is a little bit away from the wall, there would be a gap.  (the other run ends at a returned wall so any gap wouldn't be visible) 

I suppose if I mounted them individually along the run, if the end one had a gap there'd be no way to conceal it either.  I will check the walls for vertical beforehand so this issue might not surface.


(Funny, I installed our kitchen cabinets 8 years ago and I forget if I went to gang route or individually....it does suck getting old)


What's the consensus?

I did this for a living. I made French cleats from hardwood plywood. They were screwed to the wall, then aligned with a straight edge or a dry line depending on the length of the run. The cabinets were lifted on the cleats and screwed together under the hinges. Unless there was a problem in the cases themselves the run of cabinets was perfect. Always installed the tops first, then crown molding if it was called for. If the bottom cases were installed first they would be in the way of a step ladder to install the crown. Would be difficult to get a large upper cabinet  onto the cleats if I had to lean over the lowers.

mike
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#28
(03-04-2019, 11:42 AM)Phil Thien Wrote: Also, I've heard of people hanging a ledger board, resting the bottoms of cabinets on that board, and shimming/screwing the cabinet in.

But if there is a ledger board, how are you shimming at the bottom of the cabinet (if needed)?

Does anyone have a link to a cabinet-hanging video on Youtube that is "for real?"

That's how I do it.

There should be no need to shim the bottom of a wall cabinet.

Run a level 2x4 across the bottom, measured down from the lowest part of the ceiling. Set the first cabinet (usually a corner cabinet) and using a cabinet screw, attach the cabinet through the top nailing flange into a stud. I don't run the screw in tight. It helps if you mark the stud spot on the flange before lifting the cabinet. Hang them all that way. Then screw the faceframes flush with each other and shoot in all the rest of the cabinet screws tight into the studs. Then I patch the holes in the sheetrock left from mounting the 2x4.

It's tedious but I always paint after the cabinets are in because something always seems to get scuffed up.
Neil Summers Home Inspections




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#29
(03-05-2019, 12:04 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: I've always set the lowers first, with the counter top. It gives you a workbench. I would cover it with moving blankets.
Install the uppers, using my modified camper leveling jacks to set the upper on.
Get the uppers hung, I would have a workbench (lowers) right there to lay my tools, assemble the door hinges and hang the doors.
A place to lay your nail gun when installing the crown molding......etc......etc.....

Way back in the day when I was doing this kind of stuff, I recall we would do something very similar, using jacks set on the lower cabinets.  As I recall, it worked pretty well.
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?

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#30
(03-06-2019, 07:59 AM)Bill Wilson Wrote: Way back in the day when I was doing this kind of stuff, I recall we would do something very similar, using jacks set on the lower cabinets.  As I recall, it worked pretty well.

Yes, worked for me. I used to install a lot of laminated backsplash sheets on the wall before hanging the uppers. No way to hang a ledger board on those, and I never enjoyed having to fill holes in someones new sheetrock.
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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