Saw Blade
#11
I have a 10" table saw. I want to cut something thicker than this will allow. Needs to be in one cut, cannot flip over. Would need to spend quite a bit of money in order to get my bandsaw to do this. Not even sure if that would be possible. 40 + year old Craftsman that I only use for rough rounding turning blanks. I have 12" blades also. It seems I will be able to get an adittional 3/4" of height out of this if I buy a 1x5/8" bushing for the blades I have. I will not be able to raise the blade to it's full height or it will hit the cast framing on the saw. Other than this danger is there some other reason I am not seeing for not doing this? The RPM rating for the 12" blades are above the RPM's of the table saw so good to go on that. Will also need to use a wood zero clearance insert so no problem there either. Please let me know if this will work.
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#12
(03-15-2019, 12:49 PM)Turner52 Wrote: I have a 10" table saw. I want to cut something thicker than this will allow. Needs to be in one cut, cannot flip over. Would need to spend quite a bit of money in order to get my bandsaw to do this. Not even sure if that would be possible. 40 + year old Craftsman that I only use for rough rounding turning blanks. I have 12" blades also. It seems I will be able to get an adittional 3/4" of height out of this if I buy a 1x5/8" bushing for the blades I have. I will not be able to raise the blade to it's full height or it will hit the cast framing on the saw. Other than this danger is there some other reason I am not seeing for not doing this? The RPM rating for the 12" blades are above the RPM's of the table saw so good to go on that. Will also need to use a wood  zero clearance insert so no problem there either. Please let me know if this will work.

Your saw will have less torque with the larger blade.  As long as it still has enough I don't see a reason it won't work or isn't safe.  Be sure to check those clearances before turning it on!  

Is a handsaw an option, either alone or to finish what the TS cuts with a 10" blade?

John
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#13
Make sure you mark the max height you can raise the blade before turning on the saw.  You don't want to find out by accident.
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#14
I wish someone made a "ripping blade" for a reciprocating saw (sawzall). Would be helpful in situations like this.
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#15
As stated above.  Cut it as deep as you can with your table saw.  Finish with a handsaw.  It will work like a charm.

Or, alternatively, post your location and find a woodnetter with a bandsaw within driving range.
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#16
Why is flipping it over not an option?
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#17
Where are you? Might be someone close that can do it for you.
"Truth is a highway leading to freedom"  --Kris Kristofferson

Wild Turkey
We may see the writing on the wall, but all we do is criticize the handwriting.
(joined 10/1999)
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#18
Saw it as you can with the stock blade and finish with a hand saw(pull saw). Sander/plane to clean.
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#19
Located 30 miles north of Green Bay Will need to make a sled for my saw so probably would not work on someone elses saw. With the exact placement of the piece on the sled it would be very near impossible to get it alligned after flipping over. Trying to do a turning shown by E. Jones on you tube. only thicker. Might be able to cut as deep as possible and cut rest by hand then sand smooth on disc sander or if I go ahead and try the 12' I Will remove it imediatly after I am done so I don't forget and do something dumb.
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#20
(03-15-2019, 07:52 PM)toolmiser Wrote: I wish someone made a "ripping blade" for a reciprocating saw (sawzall).  Would be helpful in situations like this.


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Steve

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