Stain or let weather naturally?
#11
Wondering if this is feasible?  I'm wanting to lower my work schedule here.  First reason is my age is approaching 81.  This house has a lower rear deck of 570 Sq. ft and another upper deck above it off a bedroom that is 200 Sq. ft.  It all needs to be replaced after 30 years of use.  Ledgers and joists too.   Most stains seem to really last but a season or two.  I do not mind the look of weathered wood that has turned a grey/silver color.  Other option is a composite on top of treated joists etc.  At my age I don't have a lot of time left and sure don't want to spend it staining every few years.  Any opinions welcome.

Regards,
Bill
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#12
I put on Behr stain on cedar shingles about 5 years ago and it still looks new.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#13
I'm 71 and facing the same issue. Right now my plan is to go with a composite.....I'm sure it will be quite a bit more expensive (no estimates, yet) but I don't want to care for the wood.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#14
I am re decking a 300+ sf main deck now. My "silver" cedar is that color only when dry, and clean. Stain, or not is the least of your worries. Incidentally, I gave up refinishing every year about ten years ago. But cleaning moss and mildew is harsh and a fix for that chore will be worth any paint. 

First, you will not recover the cost of a new deck when you go to sell.  Construction material costs are ridiculous--we used to estimate ten-percent a year increase. I'd say 30-percent, now. However, I live in a sellers market which skews demand and building costs. I just paid a stupid amount for half of the required post-to-beam Simpson connecters.  Two years ago I spent $500 for 5/4 cedar decking; price had doubled in the year I spent cherry picking pieces. Total cost is about $1500 now.

Hire a building-knowledgeable person (building inspector?) to advise on the least area you must have for deck/exit ways; and at the same time, how much of the original can be salvaged. Face it, if you can get ten more years from the framing on your decks--that wood is far better than what is available now-- you probably have saved rebuilding again in ten years. Our treated woods in the Pac. NW are garbage and I am looking back 20 years when my deck was resurfaced. 

Second, the world has accumulated more egregious/costly building standards for decks since yours was built. Your building inspector may have some advice for hiring a structural engineer or biting the bullet with the prescriptive approach to building new. Depending on several factors you will be excavating house framing for tie-backs. Add interior patch and finish to the work.

Regarding plastic or composites, I found that the cost-to-life was not justified. You still clean it! And, I use my deck barefoot which is not pleasant on plastic.

My journey of discovery revealed more than this bit of information, but the balance is a variable for anyone who rebuilds.
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#15
(09-13-2019, 10:56 AM)Cooler Wrote: I put on Behr stain on cedar shingles about 5 years ago and it still looks new.

This deck gets full sun no shade  until late in the day .  The deck boards that are rotted are cedar 2x4's on 24 inch treated centers.  Had cedar shake shingles one time another location and they would collect seeds etc from the trees and before long they were growing in around and under the shingles, bad idea for that location.  Re- Behr stain I have used it on the deck 3 times and lasted only 18 months at best then tried Olympic stain and it was not any better.  You definitely live in a different Zip code if its working there.  Luck man. 
Bill
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#16
(09-13-2019, 11:15 AM)hbmcc Wrote: I am re decking a 300+ sf main deck now. My "silver" cedar is that color only when dry, and clean. Stain, or not is the least of your worries. Incidentally, I gave up refinishing every year about ten years ago. But cleaning moss and mildew is harsh and a fix for that chore will be worth any paint. 

First, you will not recover the cost of a new deck when you go to sell.  Construction material costs are ridiculous--we used to estimate ten-percent a year increase. I'd say 30-percent, now. However, I live in a sellers market which skews demand and building costs. I just paid a stupid amount for half of the required post-to-beam Simpson connecters.  Two years ago I spent $500 for 5/4 cedar decking; price had doubled in the year I spent cherry picking pieces. Total cost is about $1500 now.

Hire a building-knowledgeable person (building inspector?) to advise on the least area you must have for deck/exit ways; and at the same time, how much of the original can be salvaged. Face it, if you can get ten more years from the framing on your decks--that wood is far better than what is available now-- you probably have saved rebuilding again in ten years. Our treated woods in the Pac. NW are garbage and I am looking back 20 years when my deck was resurfaced. 

Second, the world has accumulated more egregious/costly building standards for decks since yours was built. Your building inspector may have some advice for hiring a structural engineer or biting the bullet with the prescriptive approach to building new. Depending on several factors you will be excavating house framing for tie-backs. Add interior patch and finish to the work.

Regarding plastic or composites, I found that the cost-to-life was not justified. You still clean it! And, I use my deck barefoot which is not pleasant on plastic.

My journey of discovery revealed more than this bit of information, but the balance is a variable for anyone who rebuilds.
Well, this is not a sellers market here. The decks must be removed and nothing is salvageable. I could not even begin to attempt to sell with decks in this condition.  As I see it, if a buyer was found first thing they would mention is the decks and lower their bid on asking price.  So, I take  a hit there or replace and take a hit there.  The framing under the decks also decayed, 2x8 ledgers and 2x8 joist It all has served us well here for 30 years.  Unfortunately this is a Lindal Cedar Home  but that's for another post.  Building new??  This place is 95 feet long 38 feet wide multi levels two stories and contains over 5,000 sq. feet of cedar tongue/groove 1x6's for exterior siding.  Also, why would I need a structural engineer to build a deck on the rear of the house?  House framing? Interior patch?  I don't understand what that is about?
Thanks
Bill
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#17
(09-13-2019, 09:37 AM)Bill Bob Wrote: Wondering if this is feasible?  I'm wanting to lower my work schedule here.  First reason is my age is approaching 81.  This house has a lower rear deck of 570 Sq. ft and another upper deck above it off a bedroom that is 200 Sq. ft.  It all needs to be replaced after 30 years of use.  Ledgers and joists too.   Most stains seem to really last but a season or two.  I do not mind the look of weathered wood that has turned a grey/silver color.  Other option is a composite on top of treated joists etc.  At my age I don't have a lot of time left and sure don't want to spend it staining every few years.  Any opinions welcome.

Regards,
Bill


Build whatever you'd like and can afford. Not to be negative, but whatever you build is going to outlast you... stain, no stain or composite.
Mark

I'm no expert, unlike everybody else here - Busdrver


Nah...I like you, young feller...You remind me of my son... Timberwolf 03/27/12

Here's a fact: Benghazi is a Pub Legend... CharlieD 04/19/15

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#18
(09-13-2019, 12:44 PM)Bill Bob Wrote: <<< SNIP  Also, why would I need a structural engineer to build a deck on the rear of the house?  House framing? Interior patch?  I don't understand what that is about?
Thanks
Bill
I am familiar with Lindal Homes. Lots and lots of expensive cedar. It's been a long time but I think they were a subsidiary of a timber company. I've worked in the design-build industry about 40 years.

To be blunt, why are you asking about two-bits worth of whitewash choices in the same breath with decking when you have no knowledge of the basic construction requirements you are getting into? The last I heard, DC hasn't thrown away building codes too. You need to contact a realtor for basic sales advice. Then call a good contractor who is not in Angie's List, and then, an engineer to set the construction requirements, including an estimate, to keep the contractor honest. Or, at least, keep him from guessing and adding dollars to the quote, or costs down the road. Unless you like being screwed over, this project will cost a lot anyway.

You are the one rebuilding two decks. Do your homework. As a fellow sucker ... er, money plum, I am warning you that the carpetbaggers are going to steal your retirement if you don't grow knowledgeable when you start handing out money.
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#19
(09-13-2019, 05:44 PM)hbmcc Wrote: I am familiar with Lindal Homes. Lots and lots of expensive cedar. It's been a long time but I think they were a subsidiary of a timber company. I've worked in the design-build industry about 40 years.

To be blunt, why are you asking about two-bits worth of whitewash choices in the same breath with decking when you have no knowledge of the basic construction requirements you are getting into? The last I heard, DC hasn't thrown away building codes too. You need to contact a realtor for basic sales advice. Then call a good contractor who is not in Angie's List, and then, an engineer to set the construction requirements, including an estimate, to keep the contractor honest. Or, at least, keep him from guessing and adding dollars to the quote, or costs down the road. Unless you like being screwed over, this project will cost a lot anyway.

You are the one rebuilding two decks. Do your homework. As a fellow sucker ... er, money plum, I am warning you that the carpetbaggers are going to steal your retirement if you don't grow knowledgeable when you start handing out money.

OK, i get it.  I guess my original post should have asked if treated decking lumber "must" be stained or can it weather without harm?  

Regards
Bill
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#20
(09-13-2019, 09:37 AM)Bill Bob Wrote: Wondering if this is feasible?  I'm wanting to lower my work schedule here.  First reason is my age is approaching 81.  This house has a lower rear deck of 570 Sq. ft and another upper deck above it off a bedroom that is 200 Sq. ft.  It all needs to be replaced after 30 years of use.  Ledgers and joists too.   Most stains seem to really last but a season or two.  I do not mind the look of weathered wood that has turned a grey/silver color.  Other option is a composite on top of treated joists etc.  At my age I don't have a lot of time left and sure don't want to spend it staining every few years.  Any opinions welcome.

Regards,
Bill

Bill, I'll tell ya, I replaced the decking and railings on my deck with composite  decking and composite plastic railing about 12 years ago, and it still looks as good as when I installed it; just some sprayer applied cleaner and a stiff broom to clean every two years or so keeps it looking sharp. Virtually zero maintenance.  Now, its costs some dough, but I replaced it myself and bought the highest quality materials at the time.  Labor to get it installed if you're not up for it is the same for cheaper materials as it is for higher quality stuff, so I would suggest you do some research as to what the current best composite material is and go with it.  Just my experience, from an old coot!!  :-)
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