Help, I can’t figure this out-bandsaw box

[stoppy]

I just started making bandsaw boxes. When I cut the solid drawer out of the blank I have remaining thickness difference of the remaining frame from top to bottom of a strong 1/16”. The top thickness say is 1/4” the bottom is a scant 3/16”. The blade is at a right angle to the table and the top and bottom of the blank are parallel. What am I doing wrong? It’s a 1/8” blade on a 12” CrafRaman. I have a strong tension on the blade. The box is 3.5 inches thick. Help!

[R Clark]

If I understand, your pieces are an inconsistent thickness from top of the cut to the bottom of the cut?  Some pics would help.  But it sounds to me like you're getting drift on your bandsaw blade.

Is the blade tracking correctly on the bandsaw wheels?

Are your blade guides set correctly?

Even though you have "strong" tension set on the blade, it may not be enough.

I'm not saying you need a new/different blade, but I use a 3/16 10TPI on my Delta 14" saw when doing bandsaw boxes.

[stoppy]

If I understand, your pieces are an inconsistent thickness from top of the cut to the bottom of the cut?  Some pics would help.  But it sounds to me like you're getting drift on your bandsaw blade.

Is the blade tracking correctly on the bandsaw wheels? Yes

Are your blade guides set correctly? I’ll double check that. 

Even though you have "strong" tension set on the blade, it may not be enough. I’m concerned with it being an 1/8” blade. One thing I noticed when done cutting was the sawdust hadn’t cleared the cut, would that contribute to drift?

I'm not saying you need a new/different blade, but I use a 3/16 10TPI on my Delta 14" saw when doing bandsaw boxes. I have a 3/16 blade. I’ll glue up another blank and see if it makes a difference.

Do you know anything about the Carter Stabilizer for bandsaw blades?

[R Clark]

OOPS...edited because I see now that you replied to the questions within the body of my post, and I missed it.

I have a set of Carter roller guide bearings installed on my Delta, but I've never used the stabilizer.  I know that I could get a stabilizer that would fit into the setup I have now, but I haven't seen the need for it for the sawing I do.

The Carter stuff is a bit pricey.  Before buying the stabilizer, I suggest a redo of the tuning of your saw.  I've learned with my saw that tuning is key, and it's never a given that the saw is tuned right if I have an issue.  With regard to control of drift, my saw is particularly sensitive to centering of the cutting edge of the blade smack in the center of upper wheel.  If that's not set right, then I can mess with everything else all I want, but still won't get the results I desire.

I am assuming that your Craftsman saw is a bit older.  I'm no expert, but I think older Craftsman saws were reasonably serviceable and should be able to provide decent service.  I suppose it's possible you are approaching the limits of the saw's capability cutting wood that's nearly 4 inches thick.

Feed rate: Yes, you need to watch the feed rate. Sometimes I move too fast, and while the blade will still cut, my cut quality suffers because I'm not allowing the bade sufficient time to carry out the waste. If that saw dust is packing in there, it can cause the blade to wander.

[stoppy]

I bought the saw new in the 70’s. It has new bearings throughout, wheels and guides and new tires. This is the third box I’ve done. Feed rate on the first two was an issue. I was deliberately slow on this one.

SIL was here and we were changing lights to LEDS in the shop today so I did not check the small bandsaw out. Will do so tomorrow.

I know the Carter stuff is pricey but if it will help in this charity project of mine I probably will make the investment.

[Terry W]

I've had this happen and it drove me crazy. Even though I thought my blade was sharp, the only thing that corrected the problem was installing a new blade. Once I did that the problem went away. So try a new blade with a lower tpi first. Much cheaper that Carter guides.

Also, as mentioned above, a slow feed rate is best.

[Arlin Eastman]

I've had this happen and it drove me crazy. Even though I thought my blade was sharp, the only thing that corrected the problem was installing a new blade. Once I did that the problem went away. So try a new blade with a lower tpi first. Much cheaper that Carter guides.

Also, as mentioned above, a slow feed rate is best.

For bandsaws and scrollsaws.  Don't as me how I know this.

   Found that I just let the blade cut while barely pushing it thru.

[GeeDub]

I didn't see anyone mention side pressure. When a tool is near-capacity it doesn't take much to push it over the line. That is, even though we don't feel like we are "pushing" the operation, we are already so close to the max that a little nudge can make the operation go . . . well, sideways. I had a learning curve on this for thicker fretwork at the scroll saw. I would get so intense on directing the stock I would be applying side pressure without realizing. A good way to catch yourself is to practice on scrap the same thickness as your project, make similar shaped cuts but, let up on the control of the material every now and then. If the material pulls back to "center" when you release your effort a bit, that is your side pressure working against you. This can make even a well tracking saw cut on the bias as the blade is pulled back to center as it heads toward the lower guides. Just something else to check. Sometimes problems are operator generated without our knowledge if we don't stop to check.

[stoppy]

I replaced the 1/8 inch blade (high TPI) with a 3/16 blade (not a skip tooth 4 TPI more like 8 TPI) and it lessened the drift by half.  There is still a small drift but I think a new 3/16 skip tooth blade might cure it along with being careful on the feed rate.  

The sideways pressure is an interesting thought.  After I get the new blade will try it on a scrap piece.  These boxes are for the charity project I'm working on. I'd like to keep the cut as smooth as I can to keep sanding time down.

[R Clark]

Glad it's going better for you.

Cutting down on sanding time is always a worthy goal.