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(03-08-2020, 04:46 PM)mike4244 Wrote: You've been a member since 2003. almost 20,000 posts. Try reversing the drill in the chuck, usually bores better with the sharp end down.
mike
Well not always. For drilling glass you'll want the flat end down with lapping compound between it and the glass.
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(07-02-2016, 10:25 AM)Redman Wrote: That brad point is just what you need for drilling metal. That being because metal is hard compared to wood and the drill doesn't easily bite into the metal so "skating" is an issue but with wood the drill bit can be pressed into the wood so that it doesn't "skate".
..............................
That brad point is just what you need for drilling metal.
..Brad point drill bits are designed for wood and other "soft" materials..To prevent skating, use a center drill, stub drill or center punch. but best to drill a small "pilot" hole...You may be thinking of a "bullet drill" bit for steel and other metals.
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I tried a bullet drill once. Once. Poor accuracy, lots of blow-out, and kinda loud. 3/10 would not recommend.
/s
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(03-11-2020, 01:06 AM)Robin Dobbie Wrote: I tried a bullet drill once. Once. Poor accuracy, lots of blow-out, and kinda loud. 3/10 would not recommend.
/s
Yea.......mine wouldn't penetrate that 12" tree.
Steve
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03-12-2020, 08:31 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-12-2020, 08:38 AM by Redman.)
(03-10-2020, 09:13 PM)Timberwolf Wrote: ..............................
That brad point is just what you need for drilling metal.
..Brad point drill bits are designed for wood and other "soft" materials..To prevent skating, use a center drill, stub drill or center punch. but best to drill a small "pilot" hole...You may be thinking of a "bullet drill" bit for steel and other metals.
Oh I've had holes inaccurately located even using center drills, stub drill and center punches. Those small drill for pilot holes are especially prone to wander off location. As for bullet drills for metal I think you are referring to gun drills. For those you definitely need a starter hole of the same size.
Bullet drills? Maybe you are thinking of these.
Yeah I can see that they might be rather noisy and if spun the wrong direction probably would be inaccurate and have lots of blow out.
Image won't post.
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(03-12-2020, 08:31 AM)Redman Wrote: Oh I've had holes inaccurately located even using center drills, stub drill and center punches. Those small drill for pilot holes are especially prone to wander off location. As for bullet drills for metal I think you are referring to gun drills. For those you definitely need a starter hole of the same size.
Bullet drills? Maybe you are thinking of these.
Yeah I can see that they might be rather noisy and if spun the wrong direction probably would be inaccurate and have lots of blow out.
Image won't post.
I can see the image if I quote reply. Lets see if it sticks when I hit Post
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(03-10-2020, 09:38 AM)Redman Wrote: Well not always. For drilling glass you'll want the flat end down with lapping compound between it and the glass.
I'll have to try that sometime. Valve lapping compound, or some other?
Steve
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I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
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(03-18-2020, 07:19 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: I'll have to try that sometime. Valve lapping compound, or some other?
Fine valve lapping compound. You can also use a piece of tubing instead of a drill to reduce pressure on the glass.
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I may have some lapping compound.....somewhere. Haven't lapped valves since......the 70's?
Steve
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(03-31-2020, 11:14 AM)Stwood_ Wrote: Haven't lapped valves since......the 70's?
We lapped valve seat bores all the time at work, into the 80's then went to burnishing. The seats wouldn't stick if the seat bore wasn't perfect. Ruined a $20,000 part if they leaked around the seat. I hated regrinding the laps.
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