Turning Custom Screwdrivers - Survey
#41
I went and pulled several species from the wood database and compared density to both Janka Hardness and Crushing Strength. Both hardness and crushing strength are proportional to density - the higher the density, the harder the wood and the harder it is to compress the wood. There's some irregularity around the 0.55 to 0.60 density range, but the trend is about a straight a line as can be drawn from the data. In my case, cocobolo has an even higher density than ebony, and it's very hard. What I have learned from this discussion and my research is that I am better off either kerfing the tenon or grinding off the wings and using epoxy to set the shafts, or both. Both are acceptable methods, since they both achieve the same results.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#42
Shop Dad said:


Would anyone know of a good tutorial or guidelines on offset turning handles with a triangular form? At the 2015 symposium I got hands on with David Ellsworth's tool handles for Robust and they were pretty darned sweet. I'm thinking a smaller version for screwdrivers etc.

http://www.turnrobust.com/product/tool-h...le-system/

Doug





ShopDad

You will have to make 3 centers into both sides of the wood in equal distance. You do the first center on both sides then go to the next one on both sides and so on.

Same thing with 4, 6, or 8 sides on a handle.

Arlin
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#43
Allan

Would the difference be because of the high oils in Cocobolo then Ebony or maybe even how high oils in Lignum vite?

Or would the oil allow it to give alittle bit more then Ebony?

Arlin
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#44
I don't think the oil matters much. Would be an interesting experiment, though.

Arlin Eastman said:


Allan

Would the difference be because of the high oils in Cocobolo then Ebony or maybe even how high oils in Lignum vite?

Or would the oil allow it to give alittle bit more then Ebony?

Arlin


Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#45
AHill said:


I went and pulled several species from the wood database and compared density to both Janka Hardness and Crushing Strength. Both hardness and crushing strength are proportional to density - the higher the density, the harder the wood and the harder it is to compress the wood. There's some irregularity around the 0.55 to 0.60 density range, but the trend is about a straight a line as can be drawn from the data. In my case, cocobolo has an even higher density than ebony, and it's very hard. What I have learned from this discussion and my research is that I am better off either kerfing the tenon or grinding off the wings and using epoxy to set the shafts, or both. Both are acceptable methods, since they both achieve the same results.




And one is easily reversed/replaced. Think of a collet, that's what you're building with a kerfed tang. If you want to leave the wings on the driver shaft, you should bore two small holes where the wings will fit prior to boring the shaft hole. Even if the wood is friendly, it beats driving, and risking the blade, or trying to scrape with dental picks.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#46
bump to keep this alive
Currently a smarta$$ but hoping to one day graduate to wisea$$
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#47
pretty cool thread.
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#48

Winkgrin 
I use the Rockler kits.


[Image: tn_done002.jpg]
Steve

Mo.



I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24


 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
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#49
(12-04-2016, 02:20 AM)Stwood_ Wrote:
Winkgrin 
I use the Rockler kits.


[Image: tn_done002.jpg]
.................................LIL

I have a metal lathe three jaw chuck which fits my Jet wood lathe..I grind the wings off a screwdriver shank and then grind two "flats" on it where it inserts into the wood. This prevents any slipping..Next I drill the correct size hole in the wood I am using for the handle, then I epoxy the shank into the handle...After the epoxy cures, I just chuck the shank up in the Jet, set the live center, turn the tenon for the ferrule and then turn the handle to whatever shape I want.The three jaw metal lathe chuck makes it easy and it always runs true to center..The Universal 3 jaw metal lathe chuck is one of the handiest accessories I have for my wood lathes...And you can snag them pretty inexpensively on Ebay...If they don't have the correct size threads, you can usually buy bushings to adapt them to your headstock. But always make sure before bidding.
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#50
I use the Rockler kits also.   Here are a bunch of mine.  As you can see the possibilities are endless.  Feel free to copy any of my designs.

Jim

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