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Will be moving shortly to new house that has a basement under half of the garage so about 12 x 28. It has a small garage door to the outside, man door into basement which is walkout and 9' ceiling. Concrete all around! Any thoughts on what to do with walls and ceilings? I have a clearvue cyclone and piping to install to all the machines. Plan on putting in sub panel and then running wire around. I would rather not have to put it all in conduit so walls may be nice but hate to lose any more width. I have a Unisaw w/ 52" fence that has been used more for storage than anything! (That is the extra width not the TS!) I thought about making mobile base for it but mainly just to move it around to its final resting space. I have Delta planer, floor DP, 8" jointer, Jet 14"BS and SCMS 12" Dewalt. I also have a router for a router table still to build. Any thoughts are appreciated!
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Location: DuPage County, Illinois, USA
Your scenario sounds a bit like mine. My shop is 12x30. You may not to be able to circumvent using conduit, but you can surface mount it.
I do have finished walls, but one is a partition from the rest of the basement. And the plan was to hang cabinets and other fixtures. At the end of the day, I do like the look of finished walls, but I did leave one concrete wall bare to minimize the narrowing. I did paint the bare concrete wall white to make it easier on the eyes.
This is my shop layout:
And perpetually a work in progress:
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Does the concrete cause more of a noise problem?
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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If it does, I havent noticed. I did put batting in the other walls (drywall over osb) to help mitigate noise, but also use ear muffs as needed.
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French cleats all around, high and low. You can then move cabinets and racks (clamps) as needed. Run outlets high enough to clear benches and machines and mitigate bending over to plug in.
RD
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"Boy could I have used those pocket screws!" ---Duncan Phyfe
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My shop is 24' wide, but I divided it in half because I think 12' is a much more convenient width.
Carolyn
Trip Blog for Twelve Countries: [url=http://www.woodworkingtraveler.wordpress.com[/url]
"It's good to know, but it's better to understand." Auze Jackson
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Check with your local building inspector for what's required as far as running electricity. Where I live you have to use conduit (metal or plastic) or Greenfield type jacketing when running surface wiring in a garage. Here, you need a permit, too.
John
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Frame it in and insulate the walls and cover with plywood plus insulate the ceiling and drywall. You would lose 4 inches per side. You may find it may feel damp with all that concrete.
Don
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You could use 1-1/2" metal studs and the wire can be Romex With plastic guards over the stamped holes in the studs.1/2" drywall,plywood or any other material applied and the total loss of space will be about 4".
This is a good way only if you do not like the look of concrete.Cheaper and faster to run the conduit.
mike
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mike4244 said:
You could use 1-1/2" metal studs and the wire can be Romex With plastic guards over the stamped holes in the studs.
The state of IL requires conduit or armored cable, except for some jurisdictions. Best to check with the local codes.
