Remote for 3HP Dust Collector
#41
Blacky's Boy said:


If that's all I need then I'm going to start assembling the parts and documenting the entire process. Mostly because I am NOT electrically inclined AT ALL and need to have everything laid out for me before I start.




Dom -looking forward to your documentation. I have an X10 remote on my Oneida that is currently not functioning. I'm about done fooling with X10 technology so I'm looking for an alternative.
Rick

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#42
Blacky's Boy said:


Fred,
I like the DIY Concept. I've read through the instructions on the ClearVue web site and I think I understand the concept. I've even watched a video on YouTube that explains it a bit more

web page

You need a Contactor (relay) that will handle the 240v and have a low voltage input. The power switch on the DC needs to be bypassed and the Contactor now takes it place. To operate the Contactor you use a low voltage remote operated switch.

Do I have it mostly correct?

So you can get the Contactor maybe from an Electrical Supply House (like Billows Electric around here). While there I should probably pick up a NEMA enclosure to house the Contactor.

But what kind of Remote Switch do you use? And I assume you could also wire in a manual switch as well. Right? I'd put mine in the center of my shop hanging from the ceiling joists right in front of my tablesaw. About 90% of the work I do takes place in that area.

And how to you "bypass" the power switch on the DC?


Now.....That is just SLICK!!!!
Formerly known as John's Woodshop
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#43
You seem to have it down, though I make sure the coil on the contactor is 120V (not low voltage). They are made with a 12V coil (I think) in which case you would have to have a 12V power supply to switch. With a 120V coil, you just connect your lamp switch and go. The remote switch can be any of those cheap lamp remotes (the one someone linked from HD in the other post will work). The 120V switch is only closing the coil of the contactor, so it's not drawing any load to speak of. When the coil is switched, in turn the contactor connects with the 240V power for the motor. I'm not sure how you would also wire in a manual switch, I'm thinking (but am not sure) it has to be one or the other (either a remote, or a manual). I haven't really thought that one through, someone else may chime in. One thing to remember, some of those lamp remotes have a manual switch on the body to power the lights on/off without the remote.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#44
Well, I'm finally getting my shopping list together for this project.



Notice all the items are from Amazon? One stop shopping baby!

While I'm ordering this, is there anything else that you think I'll need? I have heavy gauge wire and wire nuts. How about mounting hardware or rails for the components? Maybe strain relief connectors?
See ya around,
Dominic
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Don't you love it when you ask someone what time it is and to prove how smart they are, they tell you how to build a watch?
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#45
...and no driving all over the place to find everything! You will probably want a couple of cable clamps to hold the power cords to the box, and a lamp cord with a plug to connect the coil to the remote, it will have to be as long as the distance from the remote to the box (duh!). I just screwed my box to the wall next to the DC, if you want to mount it differently you'll need whatever for that specific arrangement. Otherwise, looks like you're good to go. I don't remember exactly, but didn't CV want about $25 for that same contactor?
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#46
fredhargis said:

I don't remember exactly, but didn't CV want about $25 for that same contactor?




Yes, that's exactly the amount they were asking.

I have a bunch of cable clamps, so I should be good there. How does the contractor mount to the floor of the box? I imagine that you need to drill holes that correspond to the holes on the contactor feet and then use bolts/machine screws. Do you need to insulate the contractor from the floor of the gang box?
See ya around,
Dominic
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Don't you love it when you ask someone what time it is and to prove how smart they are, they tell you how to build a watch?
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#47
Oops, forgot: see the two flat stabs on the side of the contactor? That's the power for the coil and you'll need 2 female connectors to hook the lamp cord to them. The ones I've needed where just 1/4". The box I used was plastic, and I just drilled a couple of holes and fastened the contactor to it with machine screws and nuts I have to think that's what you need to do with a metal one as well. The only difference is I didn't ground my box, I think if it was metal I would ground it. The contactor won't have to be insulated from the box.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#48
fredhargis said:

Oops, forgot: see the two flat stabs on the side of the contactor? That's the power for the coil and you'll need 2 female connectors to hook the lamp cord to them. The ones I've needed where just 1/4".






OK, I see what you are saying. I'm thinking these are what you are talking about. Right? If so, add another $5 to the mix.



100Pcs Assorted Electrical Wire Terminals Connectors Male and female Crimp Spade

fredhargis said:

The box I used was plastic, and I just drilled a couple of holes and fastened the contactor to it with machine screws and nuts I have to think that's what you need to do with a metal one as well. The only difference is I didn't ground my box, I think if it was metal I would ground it. The contactor won't have to be insulated from the box.




OK, I can easily ground the box. I can add a lug to the frame and tie the ground from the power cord to it. That's pretty much it, right?

I just realized I already have a power cord and plug. I have several power cords from old computers sitting right in front of me!

The reason I'm being so careful is that I am a novice when it comes to electricity. Yeah I can wire an outlet, lamp or switch. I can even run a line back to my circuit panel. But hook into the circuit panel? NO. SO I take it slow and make sure I got everything down before I start.
See ya around,
Dominic
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Don't you love it when you ask someone what time it is and to prove how smart they are, they tell you how to build a watch?
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#49
I'm in the same boat, electrically speaking, as you describe. It's why I appreciate the hardware store supply house 6 blocks from home. Good advice, no shipping time.
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#50
You've got it.....you can get those connectors in smaller packs at any hardware/box stores (I think even Wal Mart has them).
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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