An Outdoor Project - New Deck - Part 10
#11
Yahoo, the deck surface is done. I think where I left you all last time was here:



What remained at that point was to fit the last 8 or 10 deck boards and two perimeter boards, finishing at the stairs. I'd like to be able to tell you it was just as simple as that, but it wasn't. Installing the rim joist and stairs on the far side of the deck (opposite of where I started) was a big mistake. Measurements from where I was in the photo above showed I would not end up with an even number of boards. Further, the rim joist wasn't parallel with my last board by about an inch from one end to the other. I tried several mental solutions but the obvious answer was the only good one. I had to tear out the stairs, remove the rim joist, and cut down the joists so that I would end up with an even number of boards and have everything parallel. Oh well, live and learn. It actually didn't take all that long - maybe 4 hours.

Installing the last deck boards was a bit of a challenge since I was working into a smaller opening again. In order to get the boards into place I had to gang the last 3 or 4 clips well short of the end of the board, bang the board into place with a rubber mallet, and then slide the clips out until they lined up over their respective joist. To fasten them I had to drive the screw down between the two boards. But it all worked out, and this is what it looked like when I was done.





After the deck surface was done I started installing the skirt boards. My wife wisely advised that I put oil on them before I installed them. A side benefit is you get to see how spectacular this stuff looks. The skirt boards are Cumaru that has an anti slip pattern milled into it. That's of no importance when used as a skirt board, but I think it adds a nice architectural element. I spaced the boards 1/2" apart to allow for air flow under the deck, and attached them to the rim joist with two screws.



At each corner I made a corner unit by ripping a board at whatever angle was needed and then glued it back together with biscuits to help with alignment. As an experiment, I used Titebond III for the first corner unit, and epoxy for the second. I'll try Gorilla glue for the third one and pick one of the three for the last one. Here's what one with a 60 deg angle looks like:



I installed skirt boards on the sides of the stairs, but I only spaced them the width of a clip apart. Then I installed the risers and treads starting at the bottom.



When the steps were done I installed the trim board that covers the screws used to attach the skirt boards.





The ends of the trim boards have a spline to help keep the corners in alignment.



Not much more to do on the deck itself. I'm hoping for 2 or 3 days of good weather next week so I can put the oil on it. I'll show you what it looks like after that's done. Then it's on to the seats and planter boxes.

John
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#12
It looks great, John!

I've really enjoyed watching the progress on this - thanks for sharing!

"One should respect public opinion insofar as is necessary to avoid starvation and keep out of prison, but anything that goes beyond this is voluntary submission to an unnecessary tyrany, and is likely to interfere with happiness in all kinds of ways."
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#13
Those corner joints will haunt you!!!!
Gorilla will likely last longer, mine did
no permiti el bicho morderte
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#14
That oil finish looks great. Good save on the stairs.

This weekend I helped my Dad with the planters and benches on his deck. We decided to use PT for the wrap around the planters but will use composite for the flat surfaces--we couldn't stomach the price. I checked out the specials on Advantage Lumber. They say something like 3' to 7'. Is that what you get for that price? Random lengths or do you get to choose?
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#15
atgcpaul said:


That oil finish looks great. Good save on the stairs.

This weekend I helped my Dad with the planters and benches on his deck. We decided to use PT for the wrap around the planters but will use composite for the flat surfaces--we couldn't stomach the price. I checked out the specials on Advantage Lumber. They say something like 3' to 7'. Is that what you get for that price? Random lengths or do you get to choose?




Hi Paul,

I'm not sure if you can choose what lengths you want in that catagory at Advantage Lumber. I bought 10' to 18' lengths and specified exactly how many of each I wanted. The price is higher, of course, and there's an extra charge for anything over 14', IIRC. Give them a call about the 3 - 7 footers. If you can get the lengths you want Ipe' or one of the other woods they carry it would be a much better choice than composite, IMHO. Don't be afraid to ask if they have something you want that's not listed on their website. That's how I got the 2' long Cumaru for $1/ft - I talked directly with a sales guy at the Buffalo distribution center, not the corporate sales office.

The problem I have with the composite is it just looks like plastic. Maybe I'll change my mind in a few years about Ipe', but at the moment I'm loving it.

John
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#16
Oil! Oil! Oil!

Been reading a bit about oil options recently. Sounds as though there may be better options after folks have had some long-term results to look at, e.g. Penofin Marine?
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#17
live4ever said:


Oil! Oil! Oil!

Been reading a bit about oil options recently. Sounds as though there may be better options after folks have had some long-term results to look at, e.g. Penofin Marine?




That could be true. I decided to go with the product sold by Advantage Lumber; if there's a problem, I know who to complain to. I expect to have to wash and reapply every year. I'm under no illusion that it will last a long time. As long as it looks good for a season and doesn't cause problems over time I'll be satisfied. If someone has info. about a proven superior product I'm happy to consider a change.

John
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#18
There was a long discussion about finishing ipe on Scott Burt's site (topcoatreview.com). They have since spun all of the pie info onto its own site, ipehelp.com. I'm not sure where that original lengthy discussion thread is, but the upshot was they (topcoatreview) were no longer recommending Ipe Oil. I haven't dug around on their new site to find it again, though.

I think any educated consumer (and certainly DIYer) signing up for ipe is well-aware of the maintenance requirements, but if there is a superior product out there that might buy some more time, it's of interest to all.

By the way, deck is looking superb John.
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#19
The conversation at the bottom of this page may be of interest:
http://topcoatreview.com/2011/06/ipe-dec...not-to-do/
Scott's a respected painting/finish guy, at least when it comes to the internets.
It's a long conversation spanning many years...
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#20
Thanks very much for the link. Obviously I'm not finishing all four sides since it's already down. I did discuss this with Advantage Lumber when I was planning the deck and they said it's good but not necessary to do. If it was a film finish it would be mandatory. But an oil finish is mostly there for aesthetics since it doesn't seal the wood. I guess I'll know more in a year or two.

John
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