Mounting power feeder
#11
All of the photos I could find are of mounting a power feeder to a tablesaw or shaper and they are all bolted to holes drilled into the top. I have a few problems with that approach.
1- I don't really want to drill my cast iron tops
2 - I don't have a shaper so that doesn't really apply.
3 - my table saw has web (open) -wings...there is nothing to drill.
4 - I REALLY want the unit for the jointer. There is no surface available to drill without being in the way of the lumber passing through.

Has any used the universal feeder mount from Grizzly?
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Quick-Holder/G4175

Does anyone know if it will fit a Delta Power Feeder?

Finally, does any one have a picture of how they have mounted a stock feeder to their jointer?

P.S. I started a new thread so as to not commingle responses on mounting and finding parts. TIA
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#12
My first feeder, I mounted it to a 6/4 oak board then clamped that board to my tablesaw. It worked, but flexed.
I finally gave up and drilled the table and mounted it. I had no flex then.

No suggestions on a jointer, as I haven't had a need for having a feeder on mine.
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#13
I don't have any photos because it has been a while since I have done it but I have mounted a 1/4 Hp Delta feeder onto a 6" wide by 6/4 piece of maple that is ~30 inches long. I clamped it to my TS using Bessey clamps, do not use metal clamps because I know of a person that cracked a chunk off their table saw top. If the board is really rigid (ie maple) and clamped well it will work great for powerfeeding boards through the saw. I ran >1000 linear feet of maple through mine using a power feeder. It makes nice cuts with no burning due to the hesitation of moving one's hands during the pushing of the board operation.
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#14
Was there any specific reason for starting a new thread?
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#15
Axl said:


Was there any specific reason for starting a new thread?




Two for One Thursday. Did you not get your coupon book?


I'd use a steel plate that straddles the flat webs on top along with a huge solid wooden block that straddles all the webs on the bottom and though bolt the feeder to this.
WoodNET... the new safespace
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#16
Axl said:


Was there any specific reason for starting a new thread?



Yes.
Anthony W said:


P.S. I started a new thread so as to not commingle responses on mounting and finding parts. TIA


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#17
Splinter Puller said:


I'd use a steel plate that straddles the flat webs on top along with a huge solid wooden block that straddles all the webs on the bottom and though bolt the feeder to this.




That is one option I was considering. The other was adding an insert of steel between the cutting table and one wing as the wings are bolted on. But I'm really interested in hearing ideas on how to mount the feeder to a jointer, 8 inch wide Grizzly G0490 to be exact.
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#18
A piece of Channel iron would work just fine for a jointer mount. Once again you will still have to drill and tap the outfeed side of the lower casting to accomplish the mounting.

Use a piece at least 1/4" thick in the wide section of the channel.

Additionally, I have not found a PF to be of much use on a jointer especially the smallish one you have. They are far better suited to other tasks.
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#19
JGrout said:


Additionally, I have not found a PF to be of much use on a jointer especially the smallish one you have. They are far better suited to other tasks.




Why do you think that? I have a LOT of lumber (1k+ 8' long boards) that needs to be jointed and planed. I don't have the reoccurring need nor the money for a four slider planer. So I thought a power feeder would be a nice compromise.
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#20
The unit is too light duty and the wheels too narrow to be of much value, especially if the stock has a lot of twist or if the stock it bowed more than about 1/4"


Here 1-2k BF is a routine month when I build doors or base and case trim (8-10' is typical ) I do it all by hand.

I much prefer the results over that of even my large heavy duty 1hp Power feeder. IOW BTDT

you can go ahead and see how it works out though it is after all your choice.

I also question the act of preparing stock to any high level of finish ( beyond skip planed) without a project to complete. IME it makes for far more waste and a lot of very much more difficult and precise gluing techniques that can be mostly avoided if you cut stock to a rough length flatten and plane over thick, then glue, then final size.

Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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