Want to feel the wood
#9
Cherry and other woods have a wonderful feel but dirt and oil from handling discolor the bare wood. Film finishes fill in the texture ruining the feel. Oil finishes are better but still change the surface.

I like Purpleheart because it has a nice feel but is dark enough to be visually dirt resistant and dies not absorb much oil. But the color is 'special' and it changes unpredictably with air, age and light.

So two questions;

1. What finish would protect Cherry from handling (not concerned about water or chemicals just now).

2. Looking for some way to manage the color of Purpleheart?


3. Ok a third question, can you say "will film finishes fill the feel of flimsy filigree?"
The only durable outdoor finish is live bark.
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#10
#1 (&3) Certainly, slightly sanded shellac surely should suit the specification smartly, securing a slightly silky surface, specially if you dilute slightly.
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#11
1. A single 1# coat of Thai Seed or Ruby shellac (buy shellac and mix your own so you know what you are getting. The red will bring up the grain in cherry or a single coat (they recommend 3) of Crystalac Poly-Ox (it also has UV inhibitors). You want a very thin coat so spray if possible. Likely either will need to be renewed periodically.
2. Cryatalac Poly-Ox, GF; EnduroVar (slight amber tinge) , HP…. They have UV inhibitors and will prevent color change—UV inhibitors will wear out with time and exposure to UV light and they will need renewal occasionally.
3. I tried but my partial came out
homo homini lupus
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#12
Try a single coat of Seal A Cell. It gives cherry a beautiful warm color with no film buildup. The best you can do to prevent a change in color for any wood is to use a finish with a dual UV package in it, such as GF's HP Poly or one sold by SW. One component prevents UV damage to the finish, the other to the underlying wood.

John
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#13
Danish Oil.
RD
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"Boy could I have used those pocket screws!" ---Duncan Phyfe
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#14
Richard D. said:


Danish Oil.




Which contains no Danes at all. Not a meaningful answer, because there's really no definition of what "oil" may form the base of what is basically a dilute film finish. Linseed base will give more transparency and color, tung a near-satin look with less color added.

I use Minwax's GLOSS Wipe-on-Poly for such things as salad bowls, going with a first coat applied to refusal, wiped off after 5-10 minutes, followed by a second according to directions on the can. If there are any shiny areas, they are reduced with wool or 600 to match. Satin scatters too much light for my taste, even when it's really just below the main surface.

On flat work you can help your case immensely by using hand-planed wood, rather than sanding. If you must sand, don't go super-fine and pack the pores. Clean after sanding with compressed air to eject, and MS wipe with the grain.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#15
It is a pretty specific answer. The only Danish Oil available to purchase is either Watco or Deft. Both are linseed oil with some solvent and a little varnish. I think the Deft has a little more solvent and gives you a little more time to wipe down compared to the Watco.

Either product is good for a project where the feel of the wood matters more than protection, not good for a tabletop but nice on a chair.

Since the question was about the feel of the wood I think it's an appropriate answer.
RD
------------------------------------------------------------------
"Boy could I have used those pocket screws!" ---Duncan Phyfe
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#16
Richard D. said:


It is a pretty specific answer. The only Danish Oil available to purchase is either Watco or Deft. Both are linseed oil with some solvent and a little varnish.




You may also get tung, and, IIRC, modified soy-based now. For example, Liberon is tung based, old Watco was phenolic! Read the label of what you're purchasing with the characteristics of the oils in mind to determine what to purchase. Different characteristics in the oils, the mix, and the amount of driers added. Lowering the viscosity with additional solvent, or warming prior to application are two methods used to increase penetration.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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