Garage Door Removal
#8
How difficult is it to remove a garage door? I plan on putting the same door back.

Thanks.
Gibb
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#9
I removed one panel at a time when the wife tried to pull out while the door was closing. Had to undo the hinges and then each panel came out but required two people for a singe width door.
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#10
sroxberg said:


I removed one panel at a time when the wife tried to pull out while the door was closing. Had to undo the hinges and then each panel came out but required two people for a singe width door.




Yep, this is the way. At least for sectional doors that run in tracks and have a torsion spring balance system.

Put the door all the way down, but don't latch it. Another set of hands is very helpful, depending on the size and type of the door, one guy can lift one panel, but they're awkward, and it goes a lot more smoothly with one person at each end.

Detach the top panel by taking the bolts out of the hinge, then lift it off the door. Lift the panel up so that it is suspended by it's rollers from the overhead tracks, then rotate the panel it so that the rollers come out of their brackets (by "rotate, I mean move one end toward the door opening, and one end away from it) now you're holding the door panel. Set it off to one side. Repeat with he remaining panels. Each time you lift a panel off the door, the remaining portion of the door should rise up in the tracks due to the spring tension in the cables. by the time there's only the one panel remaining, it will be fairly high in the door opening, but you should be able to lift up high enough in the tracks to get slack in the cables. At which point you can disconnect the cables by slipping the looped end of the cable off it's stud.


I've never worked on doors with extension springs, or the one piece overhead doors so if that's what you're dealing with, disregard.
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#11
I've installed new and used for both new construction and remodel/repairs. I got hurt twice many years ago, so I work methodically and am very respectful of the spring's power. When removing, I always remove tension on the springs first. In most cases that means blocking the door in the fully open position first, with vise grips on the track, "just in case". Torsion springs can be unwound and sometimes, for extension springs, the cable will slip off the top pulley. (you can count revolutions of torsion springs or measure the extended length of extension springs to re-install.) With a helper, we slowly lower the door. Then I start at the top and work my way down. Re-install in the reverse order. If new tracks are to be installed all the panels and hinges can be installed (in their proper orientation/location) with all but the top rollers. (we use a few 16d nails against the ends, angled into into the framing to keep them from falling over). The vertical track can then be rotated onto the rollers and lagged to the framing. All that's left is the horizontal tracks and the cable/spring assemblies, which can take a little time to get square and adjusted properly. It should be relatively easy for an average woman to open and close the door before an opener in installed.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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#12
I need to replace one on my barn, and intend to use that routine that A squared described. the new one will have the torsion springs that get tensions with a drill. (EZ Set Torsion springs)
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#13
Why count the winds? Just draw a chalk line across the spring and when rewinding go till the line lines up.
I have taken out old and installed a few by myself and its no problem. To remove if its a torsion spring just put a strong tempered rod (1/2" usually) in the spring head and give it a bit more tension until you get a bit of slack then leave the rod in place but block it against the header so it can't rewind. If it makes you feel safer go ahead and put a vise grip on the spring shaft and block that up also for extra security. Then starting at the top just start taking the hinges and hardware off. Reverse for installation. You may have to adjust the spring if the new door is heavier or lighter.
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#14
As someone who's only done a couple - it is a job a person with hand working skills. The absolute key - loosen up the tension of the spring(s). This will be different if you have side springs or above the door torsion springs. Once that is done - easy to remove one panel at a time.

Find a u-tube that walks you through the steps. Really pretty easy IMO. The door panels can be heavy depending if wood/steel/fiberglass. One person can handle them though.
John

Always use the right tool for the job.

We need to clean house.
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