For those with experience using a throatless metal shear

[Gregory of Sherwood Forest]

I want to buy a throatless metal shear in order to cut plate stainless steel up to 20 gauge.

I don't want a stomp shear, and I want to be able to cut gentle inside and outside curves, so a straight blade shear isn't the answer, besides I just picked up a MASSIVE cast iron vintage straight shear that weighs over 250 lbs. Now, I just want a benchtop model to handle the curves.

I'm looking at a few versions of the rotary throatless shears, but I want to know if these versions curl the metal plate, which I definitely don't want to have happen. Some of the tasks I want to perform is to custom cut plate for handsaws I make (not going into business, this is just for me to have some fun).

So, if any of you have a good amount of personal experience with a rotary shear, I'd like your advice to help me choose.


Here are a couple I've been looking at:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Manual-Shear/T26867

http://www.amazon.com/Baileigh-MPS-3-Mul...hroatless+shear


If you have a better shear option for me, please let me know. I've been doing this with a Dremel and files, but I definitely want to give a shear a try.

Thanks in advance.

[MarvW]

Greg,

If you don't want either side of the cut to curl, you'll have to go with some type of "nibbler". A nibbler will chomp out small bits of metal that effects both sides of the cut equally. I'm thinking pneumatic nibbler shear, an air operated tool. You will need an air compressor.

[Gregory of Sherwood Forest]

I don't care if the waste side curls, Marv. I'm more concerned with accuracy of my cuts and keeping the keeper side flat.

[Red Sawman]

I've been using one of these for smaller sheet for awhile .. the waste side is pretty much useless but the good side stays flat ....

Sheet Metals Shear

[Boatman53]

I have an electric nibbler and it works well but I haven't used it in at least ten years. It cuts little crescent moon shaped pieces that are incredibly sharp and go everywhere, really hard to clean up after.
Jim

[MarvW]

Greg,

A nibbler will give you a pretty accurate cut with the least amount of deformation. And it can shear into tight corners if needed. It offers a maximum of versatility and will shear smaller curves, even a hole. Gee, I'm starting to sell myself on it. I'm starting to think I need one.

[sonofbluegrass]

Both of those will curl the waste side and have the potential to slightly deform the good side (depends on how well parts match and operator skill). Scissors types or nibbler type metal cutters have the least deformation and shortest learning curve but you'll lose 1/8 to 1/4 inch in kerf (more or less depending on what exactly you get). Nibblers can make the tightest corner and requires the smallest hole if you want to start in the middle of a sheet.

ron

[Gregory of Sherwood Forest]

Ok, for those who use the nibblers, how accurate are they in use, and does it give you a clean edge that needs very little filing? As I said, I want to make some saw plates. Not a ton of them, just a dozen or so per year.

And are the less expensive ones still decent? I have a sufficient compressor based on the cfpm requirements that I see on them.

[Boatman53]

It's been a while since I used mine as I said but you will need to clean it up with a file. How steady is your hand? It does want to jump up and down on each stroke so it is user influenced. Steady hand, less filling.
Jim

[blackhat]

A nibbler is as accurate as the guy driving it. I would recommend stopping at a scrap place or HVAC place and getting some bits of cheap sheet metal to practice on. How clean the edge is depends on the condition of the dies and how big a bite you're taking. Some will not trim a 32nd and leave a clean edge but do fine taking a 16th. Material hardness will affect that as well. You are going to spend some time filing the cuts. How much depends on you as the operator and your definition of a finished edge.