Maple bowl--critiques requested
#11
Had a couple trees taken down around the house so kept the best looking logs for the lathe. This is the first successful attempt, the other try is a pretty attractive funnel.

I think this is red maple, turned wet & microwaved to dry. Tried to give the outside a little flare out at the top and the inside has a lip to make it easy to pick up. Maybe the base is too big? Also got a bunch of tear out on the end grain, would have taken forever to sand out. I thought the gouge was sharp but maybe not sharp enough? Finish is Behlen's Wood Turner's. It's not for food--there's a couple worm holes thru the sides.

Dims are 7 1/4" x 3" deep.

I usually carve my initial into flat work and insert the penny with the year but I am concerned with thin bottoms on bowls so decided to wood burn. This was my first attempt and it's pretty ragged at best. Worst part of doing it is the "pen" I have has the tip a couple inches away from the fingertips so it is very hard to control. Anyone have ideas on this>

Thanks everyone. Glad to hear what you think, particularly about the shape.

Thanks, g







I've only had one...in dog beers.

"You can see the stars and still not see the light"
The Eagles: Already Gone
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#12
Like the inside undercut. I call it a passing rim. On a bowl this small it's less critical than a larger popcorn type, but the thumb finds a natural grip there. For things like salad bowls, where a two-handed lift is normal, I put a grip outside, not in. Your design is undecided.

I'd have gone uninterrupted smooth curve outside. What does for my eye. I also don't do "feet" unless they are clearly delineated from the curve of the bowl by a cut making a bit of a reveal.

As to tear out, I don't know what tools you're using, but you want to avoid cutting up hill, because that ruffles the grain and damages can be fairly deep in some cases, calling for a long time sanding. I use broad sweep gouges for final cuts, old style, because I can make a shear and skewed cut, with the final edge exit parallel to the surface. Makes a shaving which is firm on the leading edge, and feathered on exit.

Gross example for demonstrations. The lead is visibly thicker than the exit.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...ngWide.jpg

Finishing cuts are much narrower, especially turning the corner into the bottom. Minimizes lift in those two places where damage to the grain occurs.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...deTrim.jpg

Most "bowl gouge" types seem to favor final scraping. I'm not coordinated or patient enough to do it. Seems I always end up with an overfeed and gouge the surface. Lots of scraping videos and advice for you, with great similarity.

Outside passer with elevated grip, modest elevation "foot" with a clear reveal. About the same dimension as yours. My style. You will have yours.

Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#13
Both of the bowls in this thread are simple stunning.
Good work to both of you guys.
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#14
Taming tear out is more difficult in some woods than it is in others, and the softer maple varieties tend to be difficult. The 'correct' way to have a recurve, or ogee, the curves are supposed to be the same size. 'Correct' doesn't always look right though. Nice bowl.

robo hippy
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#15
robo hippy said:


Taming tear out is more difficult in some woods than it is in others, and the softer maple varieties tend to be difficult. The 'correct' way to have a recurve, or ogee, the curves are supposed to be the same size. 'Correct' doesn't always look right though. Nice bowl.

robo hippy




Robo said it for me too and MM has so great points too.


MM

What kind of wood is it? I have never seen grain like that before.

Arlin
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#16
Like the photo name says, red oak. Quercus rubrum , which gives its name to all the reds. Guess it's obvious it was grown up north, and in the woods. Notice the decrease in rate of growth as it fights for light.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#17
Nice to see other people turn red oak. I found it to be a great wood for turning. Only thing that concerned me was the open structure of the grain so I used a filler.
Shoottmx, your maple is very good looking, like the shape and the grain.
Not so sure about the initial on the bottom. I normally sign my name, wood type and a serial number. If the bowl is a gift, I'll put on the date I made it as well.
VH07V  
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#18
I like a single curve on the outside. More pleasing to the eye. The more you do the more it will become apparent to yourself. The one critique I will give is not to be satisfied until you do the best you can. Meaning, you said you know there is tearout but it would have taken forever to sand out. It would have taken maybe an extra half hour by either starting with some 60 grit or sharpening your tool and taking a light cut. There are other methods for removing tear out as well. But the fact is that bowl will be around forever with that tearout and a little extra effort could have gotten rid of it. I don't mean to sound harsh but you will be happier with your work in the long run if you don't quit until your happy with it. The shapes and technique will improve with practice. As your first or second attempt, you are way ahead of the curve.
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#19
I like the general shape of it. I also agree with you that the bottom is a little big. There are three other things that leap out at me, first of course, is the tear out. Suggest you do a youtube search for shear scraping, watch video and then practice, watch video and then practice. Your cuts will naturally get better as you learn tool control and your tear out will be much less.
It looks to me as though the bottom of your bowl is flat across? If so, any movement at all, and there will be movement and the bowl will rock, better to dish out the bottom a little and tool in some accent lines to frame your signature.
The lip is a good idea, however at the transition point you have what amounts to a small corner, which may just be tear out. That should be a gentle curve so it's not obvious.
What all that I have to say, if that is your first successful bowl it's at least 432% better than my first. Keep in mind, we all start at the same place. Good job!
Steve K


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#20
I have never turned any oak before mainly because there is none around here.

If I get some I hope it looks like yours.

Arlin
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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