How to hone a try plane (jointer) iron?

[overland]

A try plane is used for flattening but also for jointing the edge of boards--including two boards at a time for making panels. Do I need two different irons, then--one straight across, the other slightly cambered or rounded at the corners? What should I do?

[DanEd55]

A try plane is a # 5 or equivalent, it will work for a jointer, but a longer plane would be better.
You would be better off with 2 blades if you only have the # 5. One blade with the rounded corners for better, faster removal of stock. One for smoothing and Jointing

[JustinTyson]

You'll probably get a variety of responses. I use a No. 7 for edge-jointing, and I keep the iron honed straight across. Just the corners are feathered back a hair so I can use it on faces if need be. Some folks are able to cut edge joints with a cambered iron, but I've never had luck with that method. I find it harder to get a square edge that way.

I rarely use my No. 7 for trying faces. Typically my No. 6 with a slightly cambered blade gets it quite flat enough except on surfaces that have to be unusually precise. If I had to use just one jointer, I would use an iron straight across but relieve on the corners a bit. Just my $0.02.

[JimReed@Tallahassee]

The obvious choice to me is to have two planes. Each one can have its blade sharpened according to its intended use. Multiple similar planes are handy and they save time.

[AHill]

Actually, a try plane is a No. 7 equivalent, so it does work well as a jointer. Try plane is synonymous with jointer plane. A jack plane is the equivalent of a No. 5. I do agree with your recommendation of 2 different blades.

DanEd55 said:

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A try plane is a # 5 or equivalent, it will work for a jointer, but a longer plane would be better.
You would be better off with 2 blades if you only have the # 5. One blade with the rounded corners for better, faster removal of stock. One for smoothing and Jointing

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[wmickley]

A wooden trying plane is about 22 inches long and generally used on the face of a board to true it up after a jack plane. As the shaving is rather fine it needs little convexity. If you find it digs in at the corners then it needs more camber; if it only cuts at the center then it has too much camber. In other words the amount of camber is related to your habitual shaving thickness.

A jointer plane is generally around 28 -30 inches and used principally for edges of boards. As Nicholson says, if the boards that are to be joined are very thin may be shot (jointed) together, but usually done one at a time. It is helpful for a jointer to have a small camber so you can make small adjustments in the edge of the board by sliding the jointer to one side.

Although these two planes can substitute for each other, it is helpful to have separate planes adjusted for these specific functions. Even if you have two 22 inch planes you might designate one for trying, one for jointing.

A traditional kit of bench planes has four or five planes: jack plane, trying plane, jointer plane, smoothing plane, and maybe strike block plane (short jointer).

Warren

[Axehandle]

When I hone a jointer iron, I grind it square and then hone it square. Then, after I hone it to sharpness I use the same honing stone and give 5 or 6 strokes bearing a little heavier on one side and then 5 or 6 bearing heavier on the other side. Then strop the same way. It will take one heck of fine shaving for flattening or a thicker one for jointing. If you set the iron too deep for flattening then the corners will still dig in.

One could shave the corners off more aggressively I suppose but it works for the way I work.

[rwe2156]

Yes, you need a non cambered iron.