Spray can lacquer over BLO?

[mikefm101]

Hi,

I've made several small pencil boxes, about 2"x2' by about 9" long.

Mix of hardwoods, all have a coat of BLO on them, which I thought would be sufficient.

Looking at the prototype which is about two months older I am thinking the BLO will get grimy easily as these will be handled frequently.

I have two cans of satin based spray lacquer and thought about putting that on top of the BLO.

a) would add a bit more shine than the flat BLO finish
b) should protect against dirt a bit more
c) more scratch resistant

Is lacquer a good finish for this application or is something else better suited? The BLO only seems like it would attract dirt easily.

The odor issue of the BLO being sealed within the boxes I am aware of. The people receiving them actually kind of like it.

Mike

[JR1]

Most rattle can lacquer is NC and that can have compatibility problems. The lacquer will eliminate the BLO odor and will not be a big problem its self. I'd use shellac as it's about as durable but not quite as chemical resistant, but easier to repair. I'd test the lacquer on a piece of scrap with the BLO before using it.

[Paul K. Murphy]

I don't agree that you will see compatibility problems. If you give the BLO time to cure, NC lacquer should be fine.
It's probably a bit cold where you are, so I don't have a good perspective on how long to wait. Here in Gilroy, CA, on a hot day, overnight would be enough. Yours might take longer, but nothing to get too anxious about.

[JR1]

Gilroy hows the garlic festival doing?? NC lacquer is not compatible with waxy shellac and some formulations have problems with some oil finishes although normally it is fine with well cured BLO. That takes around 3 days at 60F.

[Howard Acheson]

The way to answer your question is to coat a piece of scrap from your project with BLO. Let it fully dry for 24-48 hours and then spray on a coat of your lacquer. Dust on the first application. Dust means to only spray on a light, quick coat. Let the dust coat dry and then apply a full strength coat.

If the finish doesn't shrivel up you are good to go.

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

My biggest concern if spraying lacquer over BLO would be "blushing" due to the BLO not being completely dry. I would make good and sure it has had plenty of time to dry.

[Bill Wilson]

Kansas City Fireslayer said:

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My biggest concern if spraying lacquer over BLO would be "blushing" due to the BLO not being completely dry. I would make good and sure it has had plenty of time to dry.

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+1

If you think the BLO is dry, give it another day or 2. I've had blushing problems with BLO under rattle can lacquer. It may look, feel and even smell like it's dry, but better safe than sorry.

[jteneyck]

You can always spray a sealer coat of rattle can shellac first. It will stick just fine to the BLO and the lacquer will stick to it. It also should eliminate any potential blushing problem from the BLO.

But waiting until the BLO is fully dried is always good advise.

John

[mikefm101]

Hi,

OP here.

Appreciate all the replies. The boxes have been curing for a few days, but I'll prep another board and give that a few days and try it then, probably this weekend.

I have them in the unfinished part of the basement, which gets chilly, so,it has been cold. Might move these upstairs the balance of the week.

I'll post an update in a few days. Really want to say thanks for your replies. A really good community here.

Mike

[Paul K. Murphy]

I've never had any of the problems suggested here with an NC topcoat on a BLO base. That may have much to do with weather and local conditions. Before I was in Gilroy, I was in San Jose. The towns are only about twenty miles distant, and the weather mild. Hot days we get, some occasional wetness, and a little cold, but nothing like some parts of the country. I faced adverse conditions, but always lower case _a_ adverse. Some of you folks in colder and humid locations may experience ADVERSE conditions.
With that said I would like to clarify one thing, and it may not apply, the reader will have to decide.
With regard to NC lacquer suffering water vapor contamination, the language I was taught was, "blush." Blush is the cloudy, whitish, shower door vapor, look that blushed lacquer will get.
With oil contamination, I was taught that the language was, "bloom." I haven't had this happen with BLO, so I don't know which term is better in that case. I have had NC lacquer bloom on me. Just like the word suggests blooming, colorful flowers, my oil bloomed material was a sight to behold. If you've seen oil slicks on water, you've seen pink, crimson, turquoise, and a host of other prismatic colors. It looks really neat, but it also looks like a huge problem for an oak wainscot that's supposed to be glazed burnt umber.
My problem originated in the paint thinner that I used to thin my UTC colors. That was what I used to glaze with, but I haven't seen that particular "rocket fuel" for years. California has probably done away with that one. I can get UTC colors, but, to me, they are "Chef-Boyardee" UTC colors. The stuff I used to get was the real good stuff.
Anyway, NC lacquer is an evaporative. Good news!
The patient was sick and needed her medicine. Wait for the day to get hotter, and the doctor mixed up a new topcoat; stupid, and doped with IBIB (I ain't spelling it). Lay on a good wet coat and let the (slow) PT flash off before the (slow) IBIB.
The lesson (I hope) for you guys that can get the good evaporatives (NC) is: don't despair. If your lacquer isn't feeling well, you don't have to go to square one. You can dope up a thin coat with lacquer medicine and administer it to the patient, no problem. It doesn't always work, but it usually does.
You cannot do that with reactives. Forget it. (I'm lying, but only a little)
Polyurethane, alkyd varnish, spar varnish, any catilized whatever, any two part whatever, all are reactives.
I love the evaporatives.