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Reading various other forums, threaded starter pins don't appear to be universally loved: "come out at the worst time, "easily become an obstruction and have to be removed," etc.
If my base plate had threaded holes, I might get a starter pin. But now I'm questioning whether blowing the dust off my tap&die set and drilling holes is the right option! Plus I'm not sure what I'd be drilling into!
Has anyone come up with a better solution than the pin? [BTW, my base plate sits in a 24"x20" pc of melamine.....due to lack of real estate, I mounted it on the wing of my JET 10" TS]
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Yep. No threaded hole. You don't need the threads.
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correct no thread needed if you use a
tapered starter pin these are IME the nicest safest way to go
Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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I would just drill and tap a 1/4" hole. I used a 1/4" machine screw that goes thru a nylon spacer (so bolt head doesn't hit work) 1/4" screw is tight on the spacer, so I just tighten holding the spacer.
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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Joe............what size hole did u drill in your base plate?
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I have the Veritas router table system (big steel plate) and use the threaded starter pin often. Works well, snug it up good and tight.
The system on the Festool router table is interesting, and might be worth looking at for ideas.
Good judgement is the product of experience.
Experience is the product of poor judgement.
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19/64"
5/16" will work fine just drops down further
Joe
Edit to add:
link to taper pin chart the one I use is a #6 x2 1/2" the letter drill is L which is .2900" 19/64 is 2969"
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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Just so you know, drilling and taping a hole will cancel any warranty, and release the manufacturer from any and all injury claims.
There is a reason they aren't threaded. They don't want you to solidly attach a jig to it.
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Never had one come loose, never had an issue.
If your table has a miter or t-slot, you can accomplish the same with a pointed block mounted in there.
Ralph
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Go ahead and drill and tap for the pin.I use a shoulder bolt with the head cut off for the pin.A drop of Loctite keeps the bolt from turning out.
mike
