selling hand planes
#11
This is a really great way to sell hand planes.

This is my response to a person that wanted to start using a hand plane to smooth with because he hates to sand.

You are starting down a slippery slope. First off is to get a hand plane to work properly you need to be able to clamp it solidly on a work bench. The bench has to be heavy enough so it doesn't move or you are wasting your time.

The blade needs to be sharpened with a slight curve or you leave gouges at the corner. LN says you need a 5, 7 and then a 41/2 to properly do smoothing. But the 4 1/2 has to be set so fine that a lot of down pressure is required to get it to cut. This is the way they get around the curved sharpening on the blade. PS: some think rounding the corners.

Personally I prefer to use a Stanley #80 scraper over a plane to smooth out planner marks, I also like card scrapers. However a plane if done properly will give a smoother surface.

The problem with both ways is a big learning curve and a lot of money spent on sharpening what ever.

Also if you plan on staining the project, both ways burnish the wood, crush the fibers. If using a pigmented stain, like the oil based stain one buys in a big box, the surface is to smooth and the pigments have no place to lodge. This makes staining , controlling the color difficult. And the solution to that problem is a light sanding of the piece. Even if you don't stain and just finish most all finishes need to be sanded in between coats so the next coat can stick to the first and if the wood is to smooth, in my experience the first coat has problems that bleed through but are mistaken for something else because it is finishing and not preparation.

Sanding is all but foolproof, not much of a learning curve, fairly inexpensive, and not labor intensive like a hand plane.

No body likes sanding. I have a friend that works in a cabinet shop and all he does is sand. So they think it is an important step in their process.

I sell planes to help support my woodworking habit but I used sanders. Usually the nice thing about sanding is one can go on auto pilot and not be there mentally.

The trick to being a really good woodworker is to learn to love all the steps and not the finished project. Whether it be a hand planes surface of sanded surface.




Tom
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#12
If your competent with a good hand plane, you can reduce sanding time considerably. My go to plane is a vintage #5 that I picked up for $5 and added Hock blade and chip breaker @ $80. I also have several LN planes and this number 5 works just as well, abite a bit more slop in the adjustments. Easiest, fastest way for me to remove mill marks from the tailed planer or jointer.

After planing, I go straight to 220 grit and only need to sand lightly.

Lots less sanding dust to deal with, and I can listen to the radio.

As for a bench, I have used a Black and Decker workmate set up against a wall to hand plane smaller items. Lots of solutions to holding work pieces. Heck, a couple of boards clamped to saw horses can work in a pinch.

BTW, I got that 4 1/5 that you ground, put back together and it works great.
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#13
I am just being the devils advocate here and the key word is( if)
Quote:

[If your competent with a good hand plane/quote]

Yes you can, but he was starting out without a plane, period. and skill takes time and money. There is no shortcutting the learning curve. And when the wife wants something done it is not the time to be starting the learning curve.

[blockquote]Quote:

After planning, I go straight to 220 grit and only need to sand lightly




Just having fun here, I didn't think one could do a lot of heavy sanding with 220. And why do you lightly sand with 220, because the surface does need to be sanded if staining with a pigmented stain.

Having fun again, but I think I said it was a slippery slop I don't know a lot about most of you but I am on a fixed income and I don't have $80 for a hock blade and chip breaker and then some will go for the PM11 blade or something like that. And truthfully you are just getting started.

Quote:

As for a bench, I have used a Black and Decker workmate set up against a wall to hand plane smaller items




Has to have a bench that doesn't move. Heck, a couple of boards clamped to saw horses can work in a pinch, works for sanding too.

Please forgive me because I loved the above response and Although I did have fun with it, there was some jewels there.

you can reduce sanding time considerably and lots less sanding dust to deal with, and I can listen to the radio.( go on auto pilot)

Probably because of my response, I didn't sell a plane to him.

Tom
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#14
I started using hand planes about 2 years ago; my sanding is so minimal now that I actually enjoy doing that task! It takes me literally a few minutes of sanding compared to hours of sanding before I started to use a smoother and scraper. Changed my woodworking life.

Tom sells high quality planes. I do not have one of his planes but I have read numerous posts from people that love them.
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#15
you have to start somewhere.
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#16
Thank both of you for responding to my post. I really did enjoy and like what both of you had to say.

And yes you have to start somewhere. I got to thinking about it and I remember when I got my first router. It was a Christmas present. Want to talk about a slippery slope.

I remember the hours it took me to learn how to sharpen a card scraper. I have shown several people how to do it since then and when I stop over to their house or they come over to mine I always get asked again how to do it.

When I get asked again how to do it, I know that they didn't put in the time. But then there is always time for hours of sanding.

As I am setting here reflecting on what I have written about a slippery slope, I realize that all of woodworking is a slippery slope. I think I will rethink a lot of things.

Come to think of it,. I have been fortunate enough to have had over 45 years of slippery slopes.

Tom
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#17
After considering every thing that I have written here and from the responces I have gotten I believe I was wrong in answering in the way I did. I should have been more incourageing and helpful.

Thanks for the help.

Tom
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#18
+1 on starting somewhere

I have virtually eliminated sanding and now exclusively use planes followed by a cabinet scraper and sometimes followed by a slight wipe with a piece of 220 grit.

After sharpening and honing my plane blades and refreshing the burr on the cabinet scraper, when I am at a lack for anything else to do, I go to the workshop and hone my technique. Just having a sharp tool doesn't guarantee success, how you use it says a lot!

Of course starting with a good plane helps...and I own several reconditioned by Tablesawtom!
George

if it ain't broke, you're not tryin'
Quando omni flunkus, moritati.
Red Green

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#19
Tom

When you visited me and showing me just one thing I was "Not Doing" helped enormously. So thank you again.

Arlin
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#20
Tom, you're right about that slippery slope. That said, there's a lot of ways to skin a cat and maybe more yet to get a finish on wood. I too ue a combination of scraping, planes and sandpaper to achieve what I like. And it's what I like that matters to me.
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