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SteveF: a very slight amount of adjusting to the belt tracking knob is all that is required. It does not take much. Found that out the hard way.
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It's in the basement now. I've put on the guard knob and the locking handle for the table. The belts should be here by tomorrow, then I'll try it out. The motor is a 1/3 hp Dayton, I may end up swapping it out at some point. One last pic with the new parts on. 
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I've got it up and running. The motor is definitely under powered, I'll be upgrading it.
More troubling is a slightly dished platen, which is totally unacceptable. It's a good 1/32" hollow, maybe a bit more. So, what's the best method to fix this? JB Weld and self adhesive graphite? Take it to a machine shop? If the answer is machine shop, anybody got a ballpark on cost?
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Steve,
I don't know if your familiar with the OWWM.org site. They have a classified section and quite often parts come up for a 6x48 Delta sander. To repeat what the others have said, YOU SUCK.
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Steve,
When you install the sanding belt you have to remove both the top and side covers. Install the belt. Leave those covers off and then rotate top drum by hand to check the belt tracking and adjust with the belt tracking side knob. Then pulse start and turn off motor to check belt tracking again and adjust the tracking knob as necessary. Do this a few times. Once the tracking is correct reinstall both covers. This needs to be done each time you change belt from vertical to horizontal position and back again. This procedure will prevent gouging the top and side belt covers. I learned the hard way!
Roger
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SteveF said:
I've got it up and running. The motor is definitely under powered, I'll be upgrading it.
More troubling is a slightly dished platen, which is totally unacceptable. It's a good 1/32" hollow, maybe a bit more. So, what's the best method to fix this? JB Weld and self adhesive graphite? Take it to a machine shop? If the answer is machine shop, anybody got a ballpark on cost?
On a powermatic 30a I redid a few years ago, I used something called Lab Metal to fill in the divot and then sanded it flush by laying some wet or dry paper on the top of the saw and then using that as a flat surface to even it out. Once that was done, I used some graphite cloth to overlay the platen and its been fine ever since.
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EvilTwin said:
[blockquote]SteveF said:
I've got it up and running. The motor is definitely under powered, I'll be upgrading it.
More troubling is a slightly dished platen, which is totally unacceptable. It's a good 1/32" hollow, maybe a bit more. So, what's the best method to fix this? JB Weld and self adhesive graphite? Take it to a machine shop? If the answer is machine shop, anybody got a ballpark on cost?
On a powermatic 30a I redid a few years ago, I used something called Lab Metal to fill in the divot and then sanded it flush by laying some wet or dry paper on the top of the saw and then using that as a flat surface to even it out. Once that was done, I used some graphite cloth to overlay the platen and its been fine ever since.
[/blockquote] I thinking of using the JB Weld I already have to do the same basic thing. I attempted to save some time by buying a resurfaced platen. Big mistake, a poor job of machining left the outboard end tailing off over .008 and a .004+ hollow in the middle. Now I've got to send it back. I'm very much not impressed. 
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I don't mean to hijack this thread, but I am curious about how effective the dust collection is on this machine. I don't have all of the enclosure parts for mine yet.
I previously had a 1950's Craftsman 6x48 that did a great job, but I could only use it outside. That thing would really generate the dust! It did not have any means for dust collection.
Steve
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I haven't hooked up dust collection yet, but it throws all kinds of dust out the dust port.
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SteveF said:
I haven't hooked up dust collection yet, but it throws all kinds of dust out the dust port.
It's a 2" port meant for a shop vac, and it will pull in a good amount of the dust, but wont get it all. DC on these older tools was never a priority of the designer. If you hook it up to a shop DC system, keep in mind that they don't have the higher static pressure of a shop vac and wont work quite as well. I modified my Powermatic sander to a 4" port and it works reasonably well, but it doesn't catch everything. I've also seen some other folks mods on that same sander that blow my craftsmanship out of the water, so if you go the route of restoring the machine, there are examples that you can look to emulate. 
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