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I gave my 6" jointer away to a fellow Woodnetter and have never missed it. I have a planer and use it to prepare the surface of stock.
A No 7 or No 8 hand plane is all that is needed to joint the edges of any board regardless of length.
A No 4 smoother is all that is needed to get the surface of the board ready.
These planes are available here at reasonable prices and Tablesawtom provides nice planes ready to go. I have several planes that he has refurbished and they are great.
Once you enter the slippery slope of using handplanes you will wonder why you waited so long!
George
if it ain't broke, you're not tryin'
Quando omni flunkus, moritati.
Red Green
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Jason: We can talk here about using handplanes endlessly, you can read about them, and you can make your choices among all the new and vintage planes that are readily available, but if you can get into someone's shop and have them show you how to sharpen, adjust and use the tools, that is worth its weight in gold. 25 years ago I had to teach myself as the "Neanderthals" were few and far between, but now things have changed dramatically and many more folks have seen the proverbial light, and have blended hand and power tool shops. Hopefully someone near you will volunteer their time to show you the basics, especially with regard to sharpening, an essential skill.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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Here is a very well presented video on the subject:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDyzlT-2HDYThe before mentioned WoodNet hand plane guru's will serve you well if you seek their advice and offerings.
Ag
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GeorgeV said:
I gave my 6" jointer away to a fellow Woodnetter and have never missed it. I have a planer and use it to prepare the surface of stock.
A No 7 or No 8 hand plane is all that is needed to joint the edges of any board regardless of length.
A No 4 smoother is all that is needed to get the surface of the board ready.
These planes are available here at reasonable prices and Tablesawtom provides nice planes ready to go. I have several planes that he has refurbished and they are great.
Once you enter the slippery slope of using handplanes you will wonder why you waited so long!
Right there with you brother!!
My power jointer left the shop last summer and it is NOT MISSED!
An excellent video on the subject:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l_GSBQrfHI
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Location: IA
Jason
TablesawTom always has good planes and most everyone uses from a #3, #5, #7 or #8 to do almost all planning.
Then there are specialty planes of a Shoulder plane, Rabbit plane, Router plane, and Scrapping plane like a #12 or #80 like that.
I think those are the basic ones to have. Then if you really want to get down and dirty and get rough wood you would need a "I forgot what it is called" but that one. Someone will say what I mean.
Good luck buddy and happy planning
Arlin
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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You might want to check out the
classes and seminars at LL Johnson lumber. It looks like some decent ones. You might also ask there if they know of any local woodworking clubs.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick
A wish for you all: May you keep buying green bananas.
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While you have been given a lot of great advice, here are some of my thoughts:
Use planes. This will help you understand what works and what doesn't.
Lower tier modern planes have not been worth the trouble in my experience.
Older bailey style planes work well.
New premium planes work FANTASTIC!
One more thought to share. Chris Schwatrz one posted that in his WW classes, many users bring planes, soupped up oldies with new blades,chip breakers etc. he says that invariably, these users eventually gravitate to using the 'class' planes which are newer LV, and LN planes. After reading this, i purchased a LV low angle jack plane. Now I understand.
Roger
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Yeah I've been to the event at Johnson's in South Bend in the past but usually focused on the turning events. I'll definitely try and do some plane and sharpening classes next year. The problem is that it's late in the fall and I'd like to be doing stuff before then
I used to be a member of the woodturning club here locally but have fallen out of that in the last few years. I'd like to get back into that one. I don't know of any woodworking clubs around here though...that's a good thought.
Jason Woodford
I happen to have a full set and once they had one bad winter of moisture they never real look good again. - Scott Whiting 6/24/10
I live in a constant state of horny. She's very obliging. Why mess with it? - Snipe Hunter
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To flatten a wide board you will need 2 or 3 planes depending on whether you're starting with rough stock.
1. Scrub plane
2. Jack plane with cambered iron (#5)
3. Jointer (#6,7 or 8).
Then you have to learn the techniques.
Check out Paul Sellers, Renaissance WW'er and various other videos on milling stock by hand.
As far as acquiring planes, that can be a bug a boo. You can spend a lot of $$'s as Lie Nielsen, Lee Valley, etal. or go the "Search for Stanley" route at flea markets, Ebay, etc.
Many videos/sources out there on refurbishing/tuning old planes.
If you're not into that and don't have deep pockets, the WoodRiver line of planes are a good option. I hear the #5 is not amenable to a cambered iron and mouth must be filed open but this is something to check out.
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If I had it to do over again, I'd buy vintage planes from Admiral, Tablesaw Tom, or one of the other hand tool guys who regularly posts hand planes for sale down in S&S. I've been impressed with the stuff I've gotten from these guys.
You need three bench planes: a jack plane, a jointer plane, and a smoothing plane. Vintage Stanleys and their ilk work great and are still a lot cheaper than comparable new planes.
Steve S.
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