Table Saw Safety
#21
Grrripper for sure if it was me.
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#22
sroxberg said:


I'm going the Band Saw route, it sounds safer.




You will never be sorry for that choice. Sure it can be done on a TS, but dealing with pieces that small can also be a step from trouble. Using a push stick, a fence, and some common sense the BS is a smart choice.




Once you have stock that small cleaning up edges isn't going to work well on a jointer or planer due to length. It's a good job for hand planes, and a bench stop though. making and using a bench stop Or simply clamp down a stop (stick with one flat and true edge) to a worktable,and plane toward it. It's a great primer for using a hand plane if you haven't before, and as safe as you could get.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#23
Steve, it never occurred to me to use a push block like that. Thanks.
Carolyn

Trip Blog for Twelve Countries:   [url=http://www.woodworkingtraveler.wordpress.com[/url]

"It's good to know, but it's better to understand."  Auze Jackson
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#24
Superglide said:


I thin rip to 1/8" between fence and blade all the time. But nothing that short.

A good push block, not a stick, is safer to use. IMHO







how and why, just curious
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#25
I make my pen blanks on the band saw. I might rip smaller pieces from a large board on the TS, but I always finish up the blanks on the BS. Safer, and a lot more yield. I've been known to take exotic wood bowl blanks and turn them into pen blanks. Far more affordable than purchasing individual pen blanks, and so easy!
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#26
Carolyn. I have a pile of these, and never use them to clamp much. BS, and router piece holders. I have a few somewhere that I have screwed small wooden pads to the inside faces to act as a stop. Just don't saw or route the metal bars


Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#27
mbw said:


[blockquote]Superglide said:


I thin rip to 1/8" between fence and blade all the time. But nothing that short.

A good push block, not a stick, is safer to use. IMHO







how and why, just curious


[/blockquote]

Mostly when building Hal Taylor rocking chairs. Thin ripping for back braces and rocker blanks.

I use a large push block 2.5x.2.5x10 in. With a notch cut in back to push the stock.
Gunners Mate, 1st Class, A long time ago...
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#28
I know some on here hate to hear it, but this sort of task is exactly what the GRR-RIPPER was designed to do.

It meets all of OSHA's requirements for cuts that require removing the blade guard, such as thin rips. And since it is used by riding the rip fence, and holds the part from above, so it can handle short parts.

Feel free to PM me if you want to discuss how it works, I do a lot of MicroJig's videos. Also, there s currently a $15.00 mail-in rebate on the GRR-RIPPER through March.

Ralph
Ralph Bagnall
www.woodcademy.com
Watch Woodcademy TV free on our website.
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#29
What about thin rips of 3/32"?
Gunners Mate, 1st Class, A long time ago...
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#30
A GRR-RIPPER with the 1/8" leg and a Gravity Heel backing it up would do that quite well. You would need to cut down the 1/8" leg just a bit. I have one that is cut down to 1/16".

Ralph
Ralph Bagnall
www.woodcademy.com
Watch Woodcademy TV free on our website.
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