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I'm working on a small side table (17X27x24) out of sepele. Its top has generously curved corners (about a 3" radius). I'd like to rout a Roman Ogee profile on the top. In the past I've made several rectangular table tops with no problem. In all cases my hand-held router was guided by a fence; I used an edge-forming bit without a bearing. However, I've never routed a curve of the type I just described. My research so far has yielded three options: (1) use a bearing-guided bit, but no template (just allow the bearing to ride on the edge of the workpiece), (2) create a template and use it with a bearing guided bit, allowing the bearing to ride along the template and (3) use a router table (I have a simple, shop-made table that is big enough for safe handling), without a fence, using a starter pin to help move the bit into the workpiece carefully. I really don't know which of these is best, or why I should prefer one method over another. I'm also unclear about grain direction and feed direction. This was no problem with my square-cornered table tops, since I could choose my feed direction. However, if I want to rout my current table top in one continuous action, then won't I be routing against the grain on one long-grain side and with the grain on the other -- increasing the risk off tear-out when moving "uphill"? Any help from you router experts would be much appreciated!
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I would find one with a bearing to use.
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the simplest answer is to use a hand held router and a bearing guided bit
IF the bearing has enough surface left to run against
If not then make and attach a template to temporarily give the surface required
the reason not to use a router table is just based on the fact the top even small is going to be hard to keep engaged in the bit
Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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Thanks, Joe. Yes, there will be sufficient room for the bearing to ride on the workpiece. So much for that! However I still worry about tear-out due to feeding in the wrong direction. Would you make the cut in one "operation", or would you stop at a strategic point to ensure that you are not risking tearout?
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That's the beauty of a router. You can start and stop at will. Don't even try to make it one continuous operation. Take small bites and never stop in one place. Go "backward" in tiny increments where tear out is an issue. You will have better control if you get a base from router man that has an extension with an extra knob that you can hold firmly toward the center of the piece.
Carolyn
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"It's good to know, but it's better to understand." Auze Jackson
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yes you will want to take smallish bites working in a clockwise rotation ( it is climb cutting so hang on to the router it is going to pull away from you) for 90% of the cut around the stock then work the final profile cuts in a counterclockwise rotation to clean the cut up and set the final profile
Go just fast enough to keep from burning the stock and move the router out away from the stock to re position each time you need to reset your own self or the stock and pick up where you left off. The thing about tearout is based on removing too much in one pass and forcing the bit to try and keep up potentially against the grain ( that is how tearout occurs) Even if you burn the stock in the initial passes it will be removed by the final pass so learn how to feed using those first passes, just remember to finish to reverse your cut direction and you should be good to go.
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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"just remember to finish to reverse your cut direction and you should be good to go."
?? This sounds interesting.
Carolyn
Trip Blog for Twelve Countries: [url=http://www.woodworkingtraveler.wordpress.com[/url]
"It's good to know, but it's better to understand." Auze Jackson
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I would get a Freud Quadra cut bit like this. The cut is amazing.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/828861/...shank.aspx
"There is no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid people"
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climb cut to start normal cut to finish
I explained it pretty well I thought
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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Thank you all for your helpful, specific, and encouraging responses. As I read through them it became obvious that I need to practice routing the profile a couple of times on practice pieces with the same radius curved corners before tackling the sapele table top! The really nice thing is that you've helped me know how to proceed, and guided me away from technical and procedural mistakes that could have resulted in very disappointing results. Thanks again.
