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Very nice! And those nibs on the sides... people will argue their purpose for years....
Chris
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Very nice design and workmanship. You didn't show the use of the bar or handle at the top. Function?
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Nice drive by gloat on the LN Moxon vise.
Can we get a picture of the left side? I plan on stealing your fret saw holder idea from the right side. It is the left I would like to see (maybe copy???)
Joe
"We sleep soundly in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm"
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Nicely done, Brad,
I'm curious how deep the grooves are that the saw teeth/blade go into.
What's the depth?
Is that stable?
Should it be deeper?
Just curious because one day I'll be building a saw till myself.
Thanks
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Thanks Guys,
Mike, the short bar on the top is for hanging carcus/dovetail saws upside down by the handles. I made a larger till last year (that I could not fit in a good spot in my new space) and noticed that I often just hung the saws upside down in between cuts (rather than taking the time to put them in the specific spot on the till).
Joe, I don't have a picture of the left side but I can describe it pretty easily. I made the left side for flush cut saw storage, so all I have there is three pieces of wood with thin kerfs for a saw to slide in to.
Peter, what I have found is an ideal groove is about 5/8" deep (mine are 1/8" kerfs). But I think more important than the depth is the angle at which the saw sits. Large panel saws are basically going to be parallel with the back, but the smaller you get, the more angle they leaning back. Thus the best thing to do is make a couple sets of blocks with kerfs that progressively get thicker (so that your little dovetail saw is not leaning back at a near 45 degree angle and only catching a portion of the blade in the groove). Hope that makes sense.
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brad jansen said:
Peter, what I have found is an ideal groove is about 5/8" deep (mine are 1/8" kerfs). But I think more important than the depth is the angle at which the saw sits. Large panel saws are basically going to be parallel with the back, but the smaller you get, the more angle they leaning back. Thus the best thing to do is make a couple sets of blocks with kerfs that progressively get thicker (so that your little dovetail saw is not leaning back at a near 45 degree angle and only catching a portion of the blade in the groove). Hope that makes sense.
It does makes sense.
Thank you. I hadn't thought about that in that way.
