Converting a #6 to Bevel up?

[KlausK.]

Derek Cohen said:

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You won't be too happy with the edge holding ability of a 25° blade unless it isn't a super steel like PM-V 11 or so. To all of my experience it's better to work with a 30° blade bevel at least. Then a bevel up plane will loose it's low angle advantage however.

I disagree. In addition to my anecdotal reports of using a LV LA Jack with 25 degree A2 blade for several years, I have also demonstrated that a BU configuration with a 25 degree bevel, whether A2 or PM-V11, will far outlast a BD configuration with a 30 degree bevel.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews...Plane.html

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Interesting read, Derek. I'm surprised, that the bevel orientation does influence the edge holding ability of a blade. This result, you found out when you compared a bevel up LV shooter with a bevel down LN might be caused by the fact, that the LN plane is bedded at 45 degrees. I'm rather sure that a comparison of a LV bevel up plane with a 37 degree bedded bevel down plane wouldn't show up significant differences concerning the edge endurance.

Before I built a shooting plane, I did some test runs to find out, if the extra effort of skewing the blade is worth to be done. At this time I had only 2 similar planes that allowed a serious comparison. It was the skew bladed LV block plane (left handed version) and the LV DX 60. Both of them bevel up planes with 12 degree bedding and both of them with LV A2 blades.

Aside of the result, that a skew edged shooter actually performs better, there have been 2 more results, that might be interesting in this discussion. (1) The edge holding of the 25° bevelled blades wasn't too satisfying. When I ground both at 30°, the edge endurance was significantly better.

(2) The skew edged plane held the edge better than the DX 60 regardless if the planes worked with 25° blades or with 30° ones.

Klaus

[jteneyck]

A ramped shooting board - now that's pure genius.

Thanks for the replies everyone. I've been playing around some more with the plane and have gotten reasonably good results on end grain cherry and walnut. I sharpened it at 25° and want to try 30° to see if that is better or worse. I'll post some pictures after I get some time to make a real shooting board for it and give it a good workout.

Thanks much,

John

[Admiral]

If you don't have a purpose made shooting plane, IMO the #6 has very good length and mass characteristics for shooting. Not saying a #5, #5 1/2 or even a #4 won't give good results.

One thing you might try is to figure out a means to make an angled tote for it, or turn a hot dog with inserts for set screws to attach to the cheek; either mod would make it more ergo dynamic to use.

[AHill]

Aside from modifying your frog, I'd go with a 25 deg bevel on your iron and concentrating on making it very, very sharp. I think you'll be pleased with how well your No. 6 performs with a very sharp blade.

[Roger A]

I would love to use my #6, but alas the sides are not square to the bottom...

Roger

[Admiral]

Roger A said:

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I would love to use my #6, but alas the sides are not square to the bottom...

Roger

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Since you only need the right cheek, a little draw filing (if needed) and sandpaper lapping can get you there.

[Jonathan S]

Admiral said:

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[blockquote]Roger A said:

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I would love to use my #6, but alas the sides are not square to the bottom...

Roger

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Since you only need the right cheek, a little draw filing (if needed) and sandpaper lapping can get you there.

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[/blockquote]

Or adjust the iron with the lateral lever so it's cuts square!

Jonathan

[Derek Cohen]

AHill said:

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Aside from modifying your frog, I'd go with a 25 deg bevel on your iron and concentrating on making it very, very sharp. I think you'll be pleased with how well your No. 6 performs with a very sharp blade.

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Hi Allan

What you recommend sounds reasonable - because one should get the blade sharper with a lower bevel angle .. yes. BUT the edge will not remain sharp very long, and performance will deteriorate quickly. On the other hand, a slightly higher bevel angle may not be as ultimately sharp, but will perform better for longer.

Any bevel down plane that is used for shooting will be expected to work significantly better with a 30 degree bevel over a 25 degree bevel.

Reference (test): http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews...lades.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[AHill]

Derek Cohen said:

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[blockquote]AHill said:

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Aside from modifying your frog, I'd go with a 25 deg bevel on your iron and concentrating on making it very, very sharp. I think you'll be pleased with how well your No. 6 performs with a very sharp blade.

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Hi Allan

What you recommend sounds reasonable - because one should get the blade sharper with a lower bevel angle .. yes. BUT the edge will not remain sharp very long, and performance will deteriorate quickly. On the other hand, a slightly higher bevel angle may not be as ultimately sharp, but will perform better for longer.

Any bevel down plane that is used for shooting will be expected to work significantly better with a 30 degree bevel over a 25 degree bevel.

Reference (test): http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews...lades.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

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[/blockquote]

I totally agree, Derek. I omitted a suggestion to hone a 5 deg secondary bevel on the blade. Even LN recommends honing a 5 deg secondary bevel on their No. 51 blade (which is delivered with a 25 deg bevel).

[hbmcc]

Jonathan S said:

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[blockquote]Admiral said:

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[blockquote]Roger A said:

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I would love to use my #6, but alas the sides are not square to the bottom...

Roger

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Since you only need the right cheek, a little draw filing (if needed) and sandpaper lapping can get you there.

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[/blockquote]

Or adjust the iron with the lateral lever so it's cuts square!

Jonathan

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[/blockquote]

Or, shim the wood.