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You can get more crosscut capacity by using an 8" blade and setting the fence back to match. That would require an additional table board and would also limit the thickness of the material you could cut with that setup.
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What others have said..the big time RAS makers all provided interchangeable table boards that allowed the user to optimze based on desired use.
It's a proven design.
-Mark
If I had a signature, this wouldn't be it.
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To get an extra inch or two o cc, I lift the board up, when the blade is at the end of it's travel.
Interesting thread, as I looking for a fence design, to replace mine.
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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(05-04-2016, 05:07 PM)Pirate Wrote: I'm in the process of designing a table and fence setup for my new ras.
Wanting to get max crosscut capacity.
If I set the fence distance to get max cc on 3/4" stock, it would prevent cutting anything much thicker. Setting the fence to be able to cc 2" stock, cuts the cc by about 1 1/4".
How do others deal with this? On other ras's I have had, I just laid a piece of wood against the fence, to space it out.
I was thinking of mounting the fence for max cc with 3/4" stock. Then basically take a 2 x 4 +/- planed wood, cut a 3/4" groove the length of it on one side. Make 2 of these to straddle the orig fence, on either side of blade. It would be an aux. fence. A couple of screw studs, and wing nuts to hold to fence.
Or, just a 2nd fence to replace the one for 3/4" stock.
Anyone have a solution?
I won't add to the replies about positioning the fence but I do have a suggestion or two. Back in the 70's I was a saw man for a large contractor. We had both a gasoline 18" circular saw and a Dewalt radial arm saw, 12" I think. The radial arm saw was set up about 1/4" out of level on purpose. The low part was the fence back. This helped to prevent the blade from creeping towards you after making a crosscut. Also the fence had 3/8" x 3/4" x 1" long spacers about 8" apart. Instead of saw dust collecting at the table and fence joint the dust fell to the floor thru the gaps created by the spacers. We only crosscut with this saw , though it was capable of ripping.
mike
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(05-04-2016, 05:07 PM)Pirate Wrote: I'm in the process of designing a table and fence setup for my new ras.
Wanting to get max crosscut capacity.
If I set the fence distance to get max cc on 3/4" stock, it would prevent cutting anything much thicker. Setting the fence to be able to cc 2" stock, cuts the cc by about 1 1/4".
How do others deal with this? On other ras's I have had, I just laid a piece of wood against the fence, to space it out.
I was thinking of mounting the fence for max cc with 3/4" stock. Then basically take a 2 x 4 +/- planed wood, cut a 3/4" groove the length of it on one side. Make 2 of these to straddle the orig fence, on either side of blade. It would be an aux. fence. A couple of screw studs, and wing nuts to hold to fence.
Or, just a 2nd fence to replace the one for 3/4" stock.
Anyone have a solution?
A couple of suggestions for your saw that were not covered in previous posts. In the 70's I was a saw man for al large contractor. I usually ran the gas powered 20" circular saw. Another fellow ran the 16" ( I think) Dewalt saw. The radial arm was set up about 1/4" out of level from front to back on purpose. This helped to prevent the carriage from creeping towards the operator after a cut was made. Also the fence was set up with spacers, 3/8" thick, 3/4" wide and 1" long. The spacers tacked on with a wire brad about 8" on center. This gave saw dust a place to fall thru to the floor instead of building up at the joint of the table and fence.
mike
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(05-04-2016, 06:26 PM)JGrout Wrote: I have a couple of 2" wide fence extensions I just screw in place to do thicker stock.
the screws hold them in place.
KIS
Welcome back Mr Grout. Good to hear from you again.
RP
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The post you referenced was from 2016.