How to turn wooden leg with a brass ferule foot?
#6
Specifically, I'm looking for links or videos. I want to turn some 6" long mid-century modern tapered legs that have brass ferule feet. I want the brass to have the same taper as the feet. I've got a midi wood lathe, the standard HSS ttool, and a willingness to learn. Oh yeah, except for an ugly candlestick, I haven't turned anything before.

Thanks,
Paul
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#7
Depending on the size that you want for the brass, you may be able to turn down a brass plumbing nut or you may have to learn metalspinning.

For the wood part, it will make a difference whether you are planning on attaching the legs with a mortise, a tenon, or a hanger bolt. Of those, putting a tenon on the top of the leg probably requires the least amount of lathe accessories. You can do that completely between centers.

Since you will be trying to make these in multiples, you would probably be well served to dedicate at least 3 outside calipers: one for the top diameter, one for the middle diameter and one for the bottom diameter.

Once you get your stock round, use a parting tool and an outside caliper to take the leg to diameter at top, middle, and bottom.

Then you just take down the rest of the leg to those diameters.

For some of us, getting a truly flat taper over a 6" length is a bit of a challenge. A cheat that you can use (once you get close) is to wrap a sturdy straight edge in sandpaper and sand the entire length at one time. Really good turners will not need the cheat because they can just set their tool rest to the taper angle and make the cut at a uniform distance from the rest. I'm not that good, yet.

Also, I can not recommend enough the value of finding a local turning club if possible. Like many other types of woodworking, finding a mentor is invaluable.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick

A wish for you all:  May you keep buying green bananas.
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#8
I put brass tips on the canes I make. I use solid brass bar stock. Brass can easily be turned with HSS. You will need a chuck to hold it.

It's a mortise and tenon joint, the cane is mortised and the tenon is on the tip. Drill a hole in the end of the cane, turn the brass to fit the hole and the rough tip shape, insert the tip with epoxy, turn to final shape.

I cut threads on the tenon, it holds better than a smooth tenon.
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#9
Assuming socket in brass cup? http://www.vandykes.com/restorers-round-.../p/204383/ Like this?

No real challenge, as what makes the difference in stability is the shoulder on the leg the cup bears against. Nice to fit reasonably close in the taper, but not necessary. Simple to get it close and counts nothing if it's rough from scraping with a straight chisel.

All the video in the world in a "spindle turning" search.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VPprpxMoxV4

In words and stills - http://nickcookwoodturner.com/articles-spindle-tips.pdf
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#10
Started turning some practice legs this weekend. Let's just say it's going to be a while before I get to the ferrules. Before yesterday, I would have said my router was the messiest tool in the shop. Wrong!

I have another question. How do I attach these feet to the case? In my mind's eye, I see either a wedged through tenon like a Windsor chair leg or a threaded insert in the case and a hanger bolt in the foot. The hanger bolt seems simpler.

So if I do the hanger bolt, do I drill the hole for the hanger bolt before or after I turn the foot? I do have a drill press. I just don't see how to hold the foot in the lathe if I use a drill chuck. Holding a conical turned foot on the drill press doesn't seem too much easier either. If I drill the hole before I turn it, will it matter if the middle of my drive center isn't touching anything? I'm using one of those PSI Super Centers.

Thanks,
Paul
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